Big Bend National Park

Big Bend National Park Entrance at Maverick Junction

From the tip of southern Texas, we traveled northwest along the Texas/Mexico border to the “bulge” of southern Texas. It is appropriately called “Big Bend” because that is where the Rio Grande River makes a huge bend toward the southeast and then bends back to the northeast. In the crook of this huge bend is Big Bend National Park.

Spring was a perfect time of year to visit before the heat set in. It was still chilly at night, and not many cacti or wildflowers were blooming yet except for a few bluebonnets (the Texas state flower) that were starting to bloom by the roadside.

Bluebonnets

We stayed in an RV park in the town of Terlingua (Ter-ling-gwa), a little town that got its start in the 1880’s when “quicksilver” (mercury) was found in the area.

The first thing I noticed was how vast this area is that Big Bend encompasses. You can see the purple mountains in the far distance, and somewhere beyond those mountains is the Rio Grande, and beyond them is Mexico. Though it is only #15 on the list of the largest national parks, Big Bend National Park is over 800,000 acres, and is larger than Yosemite National Park.

There are plenty of things to do in Big Bend NP including scenic drives, day hikes, river trips, bird watching, fishing, horseback riding and stargazing. Speaking of stargazing, Big Bend has the darkest night skies of any national park in the lower 48 states and is designated an International Dark Sky Park.

The Big Bend NP website has suggestions for scenic drives. We drove on all the paved roads in the park. The Ross Maxwell Scenic drive took us to Sotol Vista where we had a view over the entire valley. The notch in the distant ridge is where the road would end. That is where the Rio Grande cuts through steep cliffs at Santa Elena Canyon.

Sotol Vista
Santa Elena Canyon at the end of the road.

This is the “notch” in the faraway ridge you were looking at in the last photo. But first, some sites along the way.

We stopped at the Mule Ears Overlook. You don’t have to have much of an imagination to see the “mule ears”.

Mule Ears Overlook

Tuff Canyon and Castalon Peak were other stops.

Tuff Canyon
Castalon Peak

Near the end of the road, there is a massive mountain of rock wall that makes a natural barrier at the border of USA and Mexico.This is where the Rio Grande cuts through the rock and becomes Santa Elena Canyon.

Rock walls on the border make a natural barrier.

The Rio Grande is a favorite place for those who like to kayak and canoe down the river. It’s also a favorite spot to watch the sunset, as it sets between the two walls.

Rio Grande at Santa Elena River Access
Rio Grande at Santa Elena Canyon

We brought a picnic supper with us so we could wait for the sunset. But instead of staying at Santa Elena Canyon, we started making our way back along the same road, stopping to photograph the “golden hour” effect on various mountains and hills.

The sunset did not disappoint.

The next day we packed a lunch and drove to the high country of Big Bend on the Chisos Basin road. In less than 6 miles, this road climbs over 2,000 feet above the desert floor to an elevation of around 4,500 feet. As the road gained elevation, the desert flora soon gave way to drooping junipers, gray oaks and the tall Douglas firs and Arizona pines. The air was notably cooler.

The road ended at the Chisos Mountains Lodge and the Chisos Basin Visitor Center. The parking lot was full, so we turned around and went back home.

Our third day of exploration took us to Panther Junction where we turned onto the road to Rio Grande Village. This 20 mile drive descends nearly 2,000 feet in elevation on its way to the Rio Grande. Along the way we drove through a tunnel, and stopped for a view of the Rio Grande from above.

Tunnel before Rio Grande Overlook

Looking out across to the Rio Grande, we could see the mountains on the Mexican side of the Rio Grande. Nearby, we saw a spineless prickly pear cactus and other native plants.

Rio Grande Overlook
Spineless Prickly Pear Cactus

Down by the river is a campground, but the sites had no hookups. Even in early March the weather was quite warm. A generator would be a must.

We drove to the Rio Grande river overlook at Boquillas Canyon. Curiously enough, a sketchy-looking man was there selling trinkets and souvenirs to tourists for a high price. I’m not sure if he was from Mexico or the USA. There were three vehicles parked on the other side of the river and a canoe pulled up on the opposite bank. It’s hard to tell why the vehicles were there, and if they had anything to do with the peddler.

Rio Grande River at Boquillas Canyon Overlook

Another day we visited the nearby “ghost town” of Terlingua. The town is now a tourist trap more than a ghost town. A few old buildings and ruins could be seen. We visited a general store next door to the Holiday Hotel and the Starlight Theatre. We strolled through the old cemetery and then bought supper-to-go at the Rustic Iron BBQ.

General Store in Terlingua Ghost Town
Terlingua Ghost Town Cemetery

On the way home, I took a peek in the Quilt store in the town of Terlingua. Two little ladies were sewing away. The owner said she has 14 quilters working for her. When I asked how she ended up in the middle of nowhere, she said, “The warm weather!” “Yep,” I said, “That’s why we’re here.”

Quilt Store in Terlingua, Texas

Big Bend National Park was better than I anticipated. I found myself wanting to visit again someday because there’s so much more to see.

Sunset in Big Bend National Park

South Texas

During January and February of 2022, we stayed for several weeks in Harlingen, Texas, which is located in the Rio Grande Valley or RGV at the very southern tip of Texas. The Rio Grande Valley is not really a valley, but a river delta. It is a popular place for “winter Texans”, people who want to escape the harsh winters of the northern United States.

Having stayed in this area previously, we already explored many of the museums and sites to see. This time we added another place to our list of places we have been: The Sabal Palm Sanctuary.

The drive to Sabal Palm Sanctuary took us right down along the border. We saw miles and miles of the border wall. To get to the Sanctuary, we had to drive through an opening in the wall. There was a Humvee with National Guardsmen at the gate. They allowed us through both ways without a problem.

The plantation house is like stepping back in time. Ray took this photo, but I changed it to black and white to get a feel of the place in 1892.

The Rabb Plantation House of Sabol Palm Sanctuary
Rabb Plantation House

When Frank and Lillian Rabb built the house, it had a commanding view of the Rio Grande River and the steamboats that docked there. Today, the river has since changed course and the view is quite different. We walked some of the trails of the more than 20,000 acres and saw the old river bed.

The veranda of the Rabb Plantation House

Inside, the rooms had been restored to their former beauty. The polished mahogany wood staircase in the entrance and the antique mirror showed the grandeur of previous days.

Staircase in entryway
Mirror in entryway

Two fireplaces with mirrors and detailed engravings were decorated with more antiques. I doubt that they were used much since the winter weather is so mild in south Texas. However, while we were there, the sunny, warm days were few and far between. We had more rain than sunshine.

The antique lamp on the living room table caught my eye. Electricity didn’t come to the RGV until 1929 and oil lamps were beautiful as well as useful.

Although the lamp shown below has a cord, it was much later before electricity arrived and lamps like this were used in the plantation house.

Antique umbrella holder
Antique lamp and table

In addition to the antique furnishings were these beautiful stained glass windows and doors.

Antique stained glass transom
Antique stained glass door

Other items that interested me were an old telephone and calculator. The first telephone exchange didn’t develop until the early 1900’s and in 1913 the city complained that “the telephone service rendered for several weeks has been totally inadequate and demoralized for several weeks, and no improvement in sight.”

Antique wall telephone
Antique adding machine

After touring the plantation house, we made our way through the garden. It was winter, so the flowers and many other plants were dormant. I could imagine what it looked like in spring and summer with butterflies fluttering around the fragrant flowers.

Lily Pond in Butterfly Garden
Plantation House reflected in lily pond
Footbridge over lily pond

Past the garden were the walking paths lined with palms. The Sabal Palm Sanctuary protects one of the rarest ecosystems in the United States. The Sabal Palm Forest once covered 60,000 acres along the banks of the Rio Grande River. When the Spaniards first explored the river, they found miles upon miles of dense palm forest. Today, less than 30 acres of the Sabal forest are left, some of which are protected by the Sanctuary. Today, much of the Rio Grande Valley is mostly agricultural.

Pathway through Sabal palms

Previously, the land in the Rio Grande Valley was used for raising cattle. The soil was too dry for crops until 1910 when irrigation and centrifugal pumps came along. By 1910, there were 50 steam-engine pump houses along the Rio Grande River that watered one million acres of farmland.

Spanish Moss
We walked on this walkway where Rio Grande River used to flow.
The pathway eventually led us back to the Plantation House.

When I visit historical places like this, I imagine what life would be in those times. One thing that I’m thankful for today is that we have air conditioning. Those summers in the RGV would have been stifling in the humidity and the heat!

Arizona, Texas and California

March, April and May 2021

While we were in the Cottonwood area, we visited a few other places nearby. Jerome, 9 miles away, is a ghost town that has come back to life. It is now a tourist trap. Jerome State Historic Park is worth visiting.

The “ghost town” of Jerome is coming alive once more.

We drove the windy road through Jerome to Prescott, Arizona, where I spent one summer of my life as a kitchen helper at Prescott Pines Campground. The campground is a few miles outside of town. In many ways it looked the same, just updated.

The chapel at Prescott Pines Campground where I worked as kitchen staff in 1972.

While we were in Cottonwood, we flew to Texas for a week-long stay with my dad while my sister was on vacation. We visited Round Rock, Texas, a pretty little town and the home of the beautiful historic Woodbine Mansion which is now a wedding venue.

Round Rock, Texas, main street.
Woodbine Mansion in Round Rock, Texas

Another day, we visited the Texas Military Museum in Austin. It was large, so we saw just a small portion of it. We plan to visit it again someday.

Texas Military Museum

When we got back to Cottonwood, it was time to head back to California for the birth of our 10th grandchild. We used our Harvest Host membership for the first time and stayed overnight in the parking lot of Peggy Sue’s 50’s Diner about 10 miles from Barstow, California.

Inside gift shop at Peggy Sue’s 50s Diner

We stayed at our Thousand Trails Encore park in Oceano until our grandchild was born, helping the family with meals and laundry and other such things. Getting to be around the grandkids is always fun, but we made sure we took time for a side trip to Morro Bay for a lunch near the water.

Morro Bay, CA, marina

With the new baby welcomed, we made one last visit to our storage unit before heading north for our summer travels. The campground where we like to stay is in Oakhurst, CA. There is a beautiful little waterfall and wildflowers just behind the campsites and plenty of shade.

Our waterfall at Oakhurst, CA.
Wildflowers at Oakhurst, CA.
Our campsite at Oakhurst, CA.

USS Lexington, Corpus Christi, TX

April 3, 2020

USS LEXINGTON

We like history and historical museums. One of the museums we saw was the USS Lexington in the harbor at Corpus Christi, Texas. Corpus Christi was a good halfway stopping point between south Texas and Columbus, so we took a day to visit it.

Ray’s dad was in the Navy for 20 years, and ended his service on the USS Hornet, an aircraft carrier like this one. The USS Hornet is docked in Alameda, California just west of Oakland. Touring this ship makes one appreciate the work and dedication of men who serve in our Navy.

The ship is so long, it took two photos to get the entire length.

There are 5 self-guided tours covering 100,000 square feet and 11 decks. After watching a short film about the ship in the Mega theater in 3D, we toured the flight deck. Here we could see where the high-speed catapult launched the aircraft. We learned the stories of men who flew the vintage aircraft displayed on the deck, and saw the massive guns used in battle.

This gives you an idea of how high the deck is off the water.

The Foc’sle or Forecatle tour is the forward upper deck area that extends to the bow. What you see here is where the ship is guided.

The interior of the ship is a maze of “tunnels”.

Being a mom of 5, I was fascinated by this!

The maps to guide the ship across the vast oceans.

This is the hangar deck. This is where the planes were stored. Today it houses many exhibits along with a gift shop and snack bar.

I had to include these photos of the bridge being built and the harbor.

Yes, the water is green.

We enjoyed our day touring the ship. It gave us lots of exercise climbing ladders and walking the hallways. One caution for anyone who parks in the parking lot across from the museum; be sure you have a locking gas cap for your vehicle. We had nearly a full tank of diesel fuel stolen while we were in the museum.

Categories: RV Travel, Texas Travel Tags: Corpus Christi, Full Time RVing, Navy history, Navy Museums, Places to see in Corpus Christi, RVing, South Texas History, South Texas places to see, South Texas sites to see, Texas, Texas History, Texas Museums, Texas places to see, USS Lexington

Iwo Jima Monument and Museum

March 25, 2020

Located in Harlingen, Texas, on the campus of the Marine Military Academy is the Iwo Jima Monument. This full-sized plaster model was used to create the molds for the bronze statue in Arlington National Cemetery. This working model was donated to the Military Academy (across the street) as an inspiration to the cadets. The humid climate of south Texas is the perfect atmosphere to preserve this plaster statue. The figures are 32 feet high raising a 78 foot high flag pole. The cloth flag flies 24 hours a day.

We visited the museum located near the statue and watched a very interesting film about the taking of Iwo Jima.  The airstrip on the island served as a landing base for many US planes on their way back from Japan bombing runs. It is estimated that the island base saved more lives of pilots and their crews than were lost in the initial battle for the island. The island was given back to Japan in 1965. Many men who fought there thought it should always remain in the possession of the USA because of the huge cost of lives lost there.

Iwo Jima Museum

The statue is impressive. Near the grounds is the burial place of one of the five men who raised the flag. He was only 19 years old when he died, just days after the raising of the flag. Inscribed around the outside of the stone foundation are all the wars the marine corp has fought from the founding of our nation until present. Afghanistan is one of them with no ending date. It would be wonderful to see the end date inscribed someday soon.

The following photos show more detail of the statue. The sky was a beautiful blue the first day we visited the statue, but the flag was tangled up on the flag pole. The second time we visited, it was overcast and gray. But the flag was flying beautifully and I wanted to capture that. Plus, I wanted to get more details of the statue.

You can read more about this statue here: https://www.mma-tx.org/about-us/Iwo-Jima-Monument/

Categories: Airstream Travel, RV Travel, Texas Travel Tags: Harlingen, Iwo Jima, Iwo Jima Monument, Iwo Jima Museum, Marine Military Academy, Marines, Semper Fidelis Iwo Jima, South Texas History, South Texas Museums, South Texas places to see, Texas, Texas places to see, US Marine Monument, US Marines

Harlingen Arts and Heritage Museum, Texas

March 18, 2020

Harlingen Arts and Heritage Museum

Harlingen is a one of the many cities in the south part of Texas in the Rio Grande Valley (RGV). We explored this museum one afternoon. To my delight, in their rotating art exhibit, they were hosting quilt contest winners from The National Quilt Museum in the Oak Leaf and Reel Competition. We were given 3D glasses that turned the quilts into a unique display. There is a nice gift shop in this building also.

If you step outside into the courtyard, the museum has more buildings arranged in a circle displaying the heritage of the city of Harlingen. These included: the 1904 Lon C. Hill home (the first home built in Harlingen); Harlingen’s first hospital (1923-1925); a replica of the Paso Real Stagecoach Inn (originally built between 1850-1860); and the Historical Museum, which chronicles early Valley life and Texas History. (It was closed for renovations.)

Stagecoach Inn

The Stagecoach Inn housed the General Store and Post Office also.

  Courtyard showing the Stagecoach Inn

The General Store

Home of Harlingen’s Founder Lon C. Hill

Inside the home of Lon C. Hill, you will find many rooms of time period exhibits including antique glassware and dishes, dresses, period furniture and more. You might even see Mr. Hill lurking in the hallway.

   Inside home of Lon C. Hill

 South Texas is cotton country. This is a dress worn by the “Cotton Queen” of 1962.

This is the home office of Lon C. Hill, founder of Harlingen.

Mr. Hill lurks in the hallway.

Harlingen’s First Hospital

Categories: Texas Travel

Port Isabel Museums

February 24, 2020

Previously, we visited the lighthouse at Port Isabel and the museum. Nearby were two more museums. We visited one, but at the time, the other museum was about to close. We decided to come back and visit it later. If you visit all three museums, you can save money by buying a Combination Site Ticket. Combination tickets are available at all three museum sites.

The first museum we visited was the Port Isabel Lighthouse Museum.

 The Port Isabel Historical Museum is located a block or so away from the lighthouse. It’s tricky to find the entrance. The museums are beside and behind the parking lot to the Event and Cultural Center Building. This photo is taken at the back of the building. The back is actually where the entrance is. Walk around to the left and the door is under the awning.

The Port Isabel Historical Museum houses exhibits on two levels of the building. It is mostly collections of Mexican artifacts from the US/Mexican War.

 To find the third museum, Treasure of the Gulf Museum, follow the arrows on the sidewalk at the back of the Historical Museum.

Below is what the entrance of Treasures of the Gulf Museum looks like. Do you see any signs?

 Treasures of the Gulf Museum spotlights history and artifacts from three 1554 Spanish shipwrecks.

While we were there, we also saw this clock tower and inscription near the parking lot. I thought it made a nice photo, and the inscription is a good admonishment to us about good government.

You can find out more about these museums here: Museums of Port Isabel

Categories: Airstream Travel, RV Travel, Texas Travel Tags: Brownsville, Museums of Port Isabel, Places to see near Brownsville, Places to see near Port Isable, Port Isabel, Port Isabel Historical Museum, Port Isabel Lighthouse, Port Isabel Lighthouse Museum, Port Isabel Tower Clock, Port Isabel Treasures of the Gulf Museum, South Texas places to see, South Texas travel, Texas, Texas History, Texas Museums, Texas places to see, Texas sites to see, Texas travel

Quinta Mazatlan, McAllen, Texas

February 8, 2020

Quinta Mazatlan (KEEN-tuh  MAH-zaht-lahn) “Quinta” in Spanish means country house, villa or estate. The word “Mazatlan” in ancient Indian  means “Land of the Deer”. The history of this site starts with a man and his wife (Jason and Marcia Matthews) who built the mansion with a special mix of adobe in the 1930’s. They lived there for 30 years. In the mid 60’s the mansion came up for sale and the city of McAllen bought it to preserve it from destruction. It became an urban sanctuary whose mission is to work “to enrich people’s lives by sharing knowledge about birds, plants, and environmental stewardship in South Texas.”

Entrance

Quinta Mazatlan Adobe Mansion

Massive carved front doors

Notice the shell above the door.

Inside the adobe mansion.

One of two antique pianos of Brazilian rosewood.

Roman tub in bathroom

Tilework in archway

Courtyard

Pool and portico in courtyard.

Well in courtyard

Pathway to bird feeders and amphitheater.

Baby Cacti

A tangled mess of cacti growing in among the brush and trees.

                                                       Agave Plant

Large Agave Plant

Bird Feeders at Amphitheater

This water flows to the pond where it is pumped back to the top of the creek bed. The pump runs on solar electricity. On right are bronze turtles to illustrate the local wildlife.

Pathway to pond

Pathway around pond.

Portico with solar panels on the roof to run pump.

It was very enjoyable to see this historic adobe and walk the pathways in the garden in the afternoon under cloudy skies. I imagine it gets really hot here in summers, and the thick walls of the adobe would have kept the house cool.

Categories: RV Travel, Texas Travel Tags: Full Time RVing, McAllen, Quinta Mazatlan, RVing, Sites to see in McAllen, South Texas sites to see, Texas, TX

Museum of South Texas History

February 4, 2020

This museum, located in Edinburg, Texas, chronicles the history of South Texas and Northeastern Mexico.

Museum of South Texas History, in Edinburg, Texas

The building lobby is beautifully and stunningly decorated in Spanish-Colonial style architecture, ornamental tiles, metal railings and furnishings.

Museum of South Texas History Lobby

The story begins on the second floor. Like the Rio Grande River, the museum flows through history from room to room beginning with ancient plant and animal fossils and a magnificent replica of a Mammoth skeleton. These exhibits tell the story of the Rio Grande Legacy with artifacts and multimedia. Spanish colonial artifacts, pioneer life, the cattle kingdom, and steamboat days are some of the things you’ll learn about in the interactive displays.

Mammoth skeleton

Early Spanish wooden cart

Indian display and Steamboat theater

Chuckwagon for cattle drives

 Downstairs the story continues with a replica train station, irrigation history, horse and buggy, war history and ending in the post-WWII displays. Across the courtyard from the main building is the 1910 jail and the Will Looney Legacy Park with sculptures, windmill and a pathway through native plants.

Horse and buggy transportation

 My favorite thing about this museum is imagining what life would be like in this area many years ago. Without electricity, running water and motorized transportation, life would be incredibly hard. Yet, there were people who dared to make a life here and left their mark behind. During this time, we were also listening to Robert Caro’s book called “The Years of Lyndon B. Johnson, Volume I”. The beginning of this book chronicles much of the early history of Texas pioneers. It is fascinating.

Categories: Airstream Travel, RV Travel Tags: Edinburg, Full Time RVing, Mammoth, Mexican history, Museum of South Texas History, RVing, sites to see in Edinburg, South Texas History, Spanish history, Texas, Texas History, Texas Museums, Texas places to see

Ingram, Texas – Stonehenge II

Ingram, Texas – Stonehenge II

January 26, 2020

Stonehenge II, Ingram, Texas

We took our Airstream for some minor repairs near Kerrville, Texas. We heard about Stonehenge II and decided to drive a few miles out to Ingram, Texas, to see it. Situated in the middle of the 13.5 acre Hill Country Arts Foundation’s Campus, this is a totally man-made (even the stones) smaller-scale reproduction of the one in Salisbury, England.

It all started in 1989 when Doug Hill finished work on his back patio in Hunt, Texas. He had one big extra limestone slab left over. As a joke, he offered it to his neighbor, Al Sheppard. Al stood the slab upright in the middle of his pasture. Doug and Al then built an arch around it. It reminded them of Stonehenge in England. A vision formed and Sheppard contracted Hill to build his very own Stonehenge II. Later, Sheppard added two Moai head statues after visiting Easter Island. After Sheppard passed away, Stonehenge II was donated to the Hill Country Arts Foundation and moved to its current home in 2012.

Ray was suffering from allergies that day, so I took a walk around the site and visited the Gift Shop in the Visitor Center. The Art Gallery was closed, so our visit was short. By then, we got a call that our Airstream was ready to go, so we headed back to pick it up. Instead of heading back to our campsite near Medina Lake, we decided to head away from the cedar trees and the pollen that was making Ray so miserable.  Our campsite that night was in Seguin, TX, near the Guadalupe River. 

The Guadalupe River was a beautiful calm river complete with lily pads.

As the sun started setting, we were treated to some amazing beauty.

 Categories: Airstream Travel, RV Travel, Texas Travel Tags: Airstream, Airstream Travel, Guadalupe River Texas, Ingram, Kerrville, Stonehenge II, Stonehenge II Texas, Stonehenge in Texas, Texas