Created in 1966, Guadalupe Mountains National Park contains the highest point in the state of Texas, Guadalupe Peak (8,751′). The park is located near Carlsbad, New Mexico, and just a few miles across the Texas border. In the western “arm” of Texas, this less known national park is well-known for its clean air.
The views of mountains in Guadalupe Mountains National Park with a zoom lens
The Park is intentionally inaccessible. It was created during a time when the environmental movement was in full swing. Ninety-five percent of the park is wilderness. From the eastern border of the park where we were, there are only three short roads into the park. If you like to hike, however, there are numerous trails throughout. For us old people, we had to be content with viewing the mountains from a distance.
There are roads around the outside of the park with various viewpoints. If we had driven several hours more, we might have been able to see more, but we just didn’t have the time.
Like Yosemite National Park, this park also has an “El Capitan.” It is a 1,000′ high limestone cliff. It is visible from the highway as you drive further south. However, we did not go that far.
The wildflowers and cactus were in bloom and we enjoyed seeing the beauty of the desert in bloom.
We visited the historic Frijole Ranch, but the museum was closed. It is only open seasonally when staff or volunteers are available. There was a spring outside the ranch house that flows continually at 5 gallons per minute. A spring house covers the opening and the water flows in a channel through the courtyard.
Frijole Ranch
Outside the Visitors’ Center, we were fascinated with the yucca plants in various states of bloom. The yucca is related to the agave plant.
Yucca plants in early bloomClose up of yucca blooms
Indians called yucca “soap weed.” The roots were used for washing. Other parts of the plant were used for medicine and food. The fibers were used for many things and the seeds were used for tea or dried for making beads.
Yucca plants with mature flowersMature flowers of the yucca plant
And we also saw century plants in bloom. Century plants and yucca plants look similar, but the century plants have “branches” with blooms on the ends.
Century Plant in bloom
Later in the afternoon, the sun finally came out and lit up the mountains.
In the early afternoon, we headed back to our campground. On the way, we were going to pass Carlsbad Caverns National Park, so we decided to stop. We were too late to go on a cave tour, but we looked at the exhibits in the Visitors’ Center. I got my National Parks Passport Book stamped since we had already visited years ago.
The five mile drive into the park was reason enough to visit. The cacti were in bloom everywhere. On our way out of the park, I got a few photos of the blooms. Right at the entrance a huge cholla cactus was in bloom.
This is the view from the Visitors’ Center at Carlsbad Cavers NP. I didn’t remember this from our visit years ago, but it is a beautiful view.
View from Carlsbad Caverns National Park Visitor Center in New Mexico.
More wildflowers decorated the roadside.
I’ve never seen such an abundance of prickly pear cacti, many with bright yellow blooms.
Prickly pear cactusBloom of prickly pear cactus
I kept seeing bright pink patches from the rocks on the cliffs. Stopping to check it out, I discovered they were hedgehog cacti in bloom.
Hedgehog cacti on cliffsideHedgehog cactusHedgehog cactusHedgehog cactus
Ray was curious about the “green chili peppers” he saw on some of the yucca. I zoomed in and got these photos. The chili peppers are really seed pods of the yucca plant. These are yet another stage of the yucca plant.
Yucca seed podsYucca seed pods
Yucca plants take many years to grow.
Yucca plant
Our Escapees park had some beautiful specimens of yucca and ocotillo.
Yucca plant in bloom at Escapees campgroundYucca flowers close up.Ocotillo in bloom
I was somewhat disappointed in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. However, it has been years since I have seen Carlsbad Caverns National Park. I would love to go back and re-visit it again. And, who knows, I might just give Guadalupe Mountains National Park another try also.
The drive from Show Low to Alpine, Arizona, was very scenic. We drove almost due east on Highway 60 to Springerville and Eager. From there, we headed south to the beautiful little town of Alpine, Arizona, where we stayed almost a week.
Highway 180 and 191 going into Alpine, Arizona
Alpine. at an elevation of 8,000 feet, is in the White Mountains and is situated in a large alpine meadow lined with tall pines and sprinkled with small lakes. There’s a small grocery store, post office, and a few other businesses. Elk herds feed in the vast meadow unharmed.
The entrance to Alpine is a large meadow with a lake
Alpine lies a few miles west of the Arizona/New Mexico border. Highways 180 and 191 split in the center of town. Highway 180 goes east and then south into New Mexico, and Highway 191 goes south in Arizona. These highways parallel each other and never meet again. Both eventually end up at the Mexican border.
Catwalk National Recreation Trail
We took Highway 180 into New Mexico as far as the little town of Glenwood, New Mexico. It is a very scenic drive, going from pine studded mountains to high desert to green valleys of cottonwood trees.
At Glenwood, we turned onto a side road (NM Hwy 184 or Catwalk Road) and drove 5 miles to Catwalk Recreation Area in the Gila National Forest. We forded a couple of streams that flowed over the road on our way there. At the end of the road is a large parking lot. A picnic area is situated under the shade of large sycamore trees near sparkling Whitewater Creek.
Whitewater Creek near picnic area
There is a trail that follows the creek up into Whitewater Canyon. When the canyon narrows, a metal catwalk attached to the canyon walls allows hikers to walk above the creek at tree level.
Western Sycamore Trees line Whitewater Creek
The Catwalk was originally a board walkway placed on top of a steel pipe that brought water to an ore processing plant. Apparently, a person needed to have the balance of a cat to walk on it. That’s how it got its name.
Later, in the 1930’s, the Civilian Conservation Corps built a wooden catwalk over the existing pipeline. It washed away during a flood in 2012. The present day catwalk was then built to replace the old one. It is now accessible for all ages and abilities. It is only .6 miles long. The trail continues beyond, but is closed due to danger of falling rocks.
Looking up at a Western Sycamore tree
The trail starts out easy. We walked in the shade of the trees and there was a cool breeze.
Shady path leads to first bridge over creek
Before the path crosses the first bridge, it splits. A more difficult path stays to the left of the creek, while the easier path crosses the bridge on the right side.+
It got warmer as soon as we left the shade of the trees. We were going uphill at that point.
We thought we were getting closer to the catwalk when we reach some metal handrails, but we still had a ways to go.
The rocks are held in place by wire.
Shortly after we were rewarded with our first glimpse of the catwalk.
We were above the treetops! At this point, the canyon was closing in on us. The walls were closer and towered above us.
We were above the treetops.Looking back where we came from.
We rounded a corner, and it was like we were in a cave. The rock wall curved over our heads.
Looking back, we could see the canyon walls and the creek below.
Each bend around the canyon walls showcased another beautiful sight.
The Catwalk hangs over the canyon.
Eventually we got to the bridge where we met up with the trail from the other side. There was a bench there and we rested awhile enjoying the beauty of the place.
At this point, the Catwalk crossed to the left side of the canyon and continued on. I walked across to where the other trail met up. Steep steps led down to the bridge. I was glad we chose the easier route.
We continued on the catwalk which was now on the opposite side of the canyon walls. Most of these photos are taken looking backward down the catwalk where we’ve already walked, so they look like we are still walking on the same side.
Sometimes we saw evidence of the past. Here is an metal anchor from a previous catwalk.
The canyon walls above us were so close, they almost touched. The rock in this part of the canyon is harder. Therefore, the canyon walls are narrower because they haven’t eroded as much as the walls near the picnic area where the rock is of a softer material.
The Narrows of the canyon.
The creek was always below us, rushing through the canyon.
Sometimes we could hear or see a small waterfall.
Small waterfall
When we finally came to the end of the catwalk, we walked down to the creek below. We didn’t intend to go further, but the trail continued on. However, due to recent rock falls, the trail was closed.
The Catwalk ends but the trail goes on.
The trail that continued on crossed the creek on stepping stones.
The path continues on after the catwalk.Stepping stones lead across the creek as the trail goes on.
Trees and vegetation grew out of the canyon walls, making a beautiful contrast of colors.
Around one corner, there was a deep crevice.
By the time we got back to our truck, we were hot, tired and thirsty. This time we carried water with us and wore our hats. It was recommended to carry bug deterrent, but even though I was prepared, there were no bugs to bother us.
This is another example of a really beautiful spot in an out-of-the-way place. A hidden jewel waiting to be discovered.
“Lord, how many are Your works! In wisdom You have made them all; The earth is full of Your possessions.” Psalm 104:24 NASB
While we were staying in Show Low, Arizona, we took a day trip to see Tonto Natural Bridge State Park. It is believed to be the largest travertine natural bridge in the world.
Entrance to Tonto Naturla Bridge on Arizona Highway 260 near Pine, Arizona.
The natural bridge is located less than 15 miles from Payson, Arizona. It was about an hour and a half drive from Show Low. We ate lunch in Payson and then continued on to the park.
At the entrance we had to park and pay our entrance fee in the gift shop, which is located on the bottom floor of the historic Goodfellow Lodge. The Lodge was built in the 1920s and is still in use today.
Lobby of the Goodfellow LodgeGarden outside Goodfellow Lodge
After getting our park pass, we drove to the parking lot closest to the Natural Bridge. There are four viewpoints along the walking path overlooking the tunnel of the bridge from above. We stopped at Viewpoint #1 first.
Bridge from Viewpoint #1Tonto Natural Bridge from Viewpoint #1
To reach viewpoint #2, we had to walk across the bridge and walk a short distance on the Anna Mae pathway. The tunnel is not visible from this viewpoint. However, the travertine layers are visible. Travertine is formed from calcium carbonate-rich water exposed to air. As it precipitates out, calcite is forced out of solution when the water evaporates. These are similar to cave formations.
Travertine formations from Viewpoint #3 along the Anna Mae trail.
Crossing back over the bridge, we walked to Viewpoint #3 and #4. As we walked to the viewpoints, we crossed over a small stream that flows over the top of the bridge and makes a sparkling waterfall. Looking down, we could see the observation deck and bridge below.
Looking down from Viewpoint #4 at bridge that crosses Pine Creek.Viewpoint #4 waterfall drips over top of natural bridgeWater flows over the top of the bridge from Viewpoint #4
We debated if we should try to hike the trail to the bottom. It was very steep and rocky. But we were there to see what we could, so we decided to give it a go. We proceeded carefully and made it to the bottom fairly easily.
Looking back up the Gowan trail. The Gowan trail is only about .3 miles to the bottom of the Bridge
Along the trail to the bottom we saw several wildflowers and interesting plant life.
Purple wildflowers along Gowan TrailWildflowers on Gowan TrailWildflowers on Gowan TrailThe Bridge from the pathway as we get closer.
When we got to the bottom, we relaxed for a time in the cool shade, listening to the sounds of Pine Creek. Fortunately, there was a nice breeze that day that kept us cool.
Pine Creek flows under the Natural BridgeBridge and observation deck at bottom of Gowan trailBoulders at the bottom of the BridgeLooking back from observation deck at bridge over Pine Creek
Once at the bottom, the enormity of the Bridge, which was 183 feet high, was evident. It was like looking into a huge cave. Boulders were scattered throughout, and the waterfall glistened as it fell to the rocks below.
Looking through the tunnel formed by the Natural Bridge
Arrows painted on the rocks showed us that the path continued through the tunnel to the other side. However, it involved scrambling over slippery rocks and boulders. We opted to go back out the way we came.
Looking through tunnel at Tonto Natural Bridge
We took our time and stopped frequently to catch our breath. The elevation is over 4,500 feet. There were a couple of benches of which we took advantage on our way back. It definitely seemed a lot longer going up than it did going down. Eventually we made it up to the top.
On our way back home to Show Low, we drove for miles along the Mogollon Rim, a steep edge of the Colorado Plateau. We stopped at the Mogollon Rim Visitor Center. It was closed, but the observation deck was open. I stood looking over the mountains and valleys below. Highway 280 along this section is one of the most beautiful drives in Arizona.
Looking out from the Mogollon Rim Looking out from the Mogollon Rim
Sometimes it is worth the effort to go out of your way to see something really special. That is what we did on this day, and we were glad we did.
“Lord, You have been our dwelling place in all generations. Before the mountains were born Or You gave birth to the earth and the world, Even from everlasting to everlasting, You are God.”
After several days of cool, cloudy weather in Mesa, Arizona, it finally warmed up. We packed a picnic lunch one morning and drove north to McDowell Mountain Regional Park near Fountain Hills, Arizona. The recent and frequent rainfall over the winter made a perfect environment for a great season of wildflowers. On our drive there, the sides of the road were awash in color.
We stopped at the Visitors’ Center where we ate our lunch outside in a picnic area. Inside the Center, we saw some live rattlesnakes, and picked up some literature about wildflower species.
The Ranger at the gate suggested the North Trail hike for spotting the most wildflowers. It was supposed to be an easy hike. We planned to just walk a short way to get some photos.
At one point I turned and looked back and saw a beautiful view of the Four Peaks.
North Trail looking toward Four Peaks
On our way, we met some people who told us there were fields of poppies about a half mile to a mile down the trail. What we didn’t realize is that the trail splits and makes a loop. We took the trail to the right, but the fields of poppies were on the trail to the left.
The trail splits, but we go to the right.
We kept going, thinking the fields of poppies might be around the next bend.
Chuparosa bushChuparosa bush
On our walk we saw a variety of wildflowers and desert plants in bloom.
Scorpion WeedStinknet or Globe Chamomile Rock GiliaBrittlebush, the little sunflowers of the Arizona desertDesert Star DaisyCoulter’s LupineCreosote Bush
The views of cacti and distant mountains were beautiful, but by now we were starting to get hot and thirsty.
Saguaro cactus and Ocotillo CactusOcotillo Cactus in bloom
We finally saw some yellow flowers, but they were not poppies. Could the people we met on the trail possibly have mistaken these yellow flowers for poppies? It seemed unlikely. But we’d already gone past the one mile marker. The path started to get steeper.
Saguaro Cactus
After walking more than a mile, we finally found a few poppies, but no fields of them. By now we were wishing that we’d worn a hat and had brought along some water. We decided it was time to turn back.
Golden Poppy
Not being satisfied with the amount of wildflowers we had seen on our walk, I was hoping to get more photos on our drive out of the park. I was not disappointed.
Purple Owl’s Clover and LupinePurple Owl’s Clover and LupineLupine
We stopped along the road in several places.
Purple Owl’s CloverPurple Owl’s Clover and Lupine
Finally, Ray spotted some poppies. I got out to get a better look and get some photos.
Golden PoppiesGolden Poppies
Knowing how quickly flowers can bloom and fade, I do not blame the Ranger for sending us off on a wild goose chase. If we had taken the correct pathway, we might have seen the fields of poppies described by the people we met on the trail. But it was not a total loss. We saw more flowers on our way out of the park than we saw on our hike.
The flowers lined the road as we headed home. In the distance was Weaver’s Needle in the Superstition Mountains. It had been a successful day of wildflower hunting and photography.
“And if God cares so wonderfully for flowers that are here today and gone tomorrow, won’t he more surely care for you, O men of little faith?” Matthew 6:30
When I lived in Arizona, one of my favorite places to see while traveling north along Highway 17 was Verde Valley. The highway crests a hill and suddenly the view of a lush green valley opens up. As the highway descends into the valley, the green fields and bright green of the cottonwood trees are a stark contrast to the dry surrounding desert. Vermillian cliffs surround the valley while snow-capped mountains peak over the rim. It is a stunning view.
View from the top of Tuzigoot NM. Cottonwood trees line the Verde River. The ghost town of Jerome sits on the side of the distant mountains.
The Indians who came here 1400 years ago traveled along the Verde River valley. Like people of today, they liked to settle near water or on hilltops. One such group, the Sinagua, settled on a hill overlooking the Verde River. They were close enough to the river for water, but high enough to avoid the floodwaters when the river overflowed its banks.
Tuzigoot ruins sit on a hilltop
We don’t know much about these people. Their multi-room settlement was similar in construction to many other pueblos found in New Mexico, Colorado and southern Arizona which means they traveled frequently to each others’ settlements. The relics found, as well as the construction of their dwellings, show evidence of this.
View from the ruins looking down toward the Verde River
The Sinagua people eventually moved north and the walls crumbled and became buried and forgotten until the 1880s when two men from Smithsonian Institute began excavating the site. They gave the name “Tuzigoot” to this site. Tuzigoot is a corrupted form of the Tonto Apache name Tú Digiz, the name for this stretch of the Verde River. It is translated “Crooked Water.”
Typical wall construction was of adobe and stone.Roof construction was of logs from trees growing by the nearby Verde River.To preserved the structure, mortar is regularly replaced with a mixture similar to the original.
Since taking a pottery class many years ago, I have always been interested in pottery from historical sites. These pots were probably made by coil rope construction, smoothed, glazed and fired in a pit in the ground. What amazed me about these pots was their size!
Large pots probably for water storage.Pottery imported from neighboring areas show that the desert people traveled and traded with one another.Grinding stone for grinding corn into flour.Wildlife is plentiful along the Verde River.
Along the walkway several indigenous plants were labeled. Isn’t this Hedgehog Cactus cute?
Cane Cholla Cactus is easily caught on clothing and shoes while walking by.
Today visitors can enjoy walking through the rooms of this ancient Indian village, see the displays of artifacts that were discovered here, and enjoy the beautiful views from atop the historical mound.
Montezuma’s Castle National Monument
Less than 25 miles away is another ancient ruin known as Montezuma’s Castle National Monument which was also occupied by Sinagua people. It was misnamed by early discoverers of the site who thought that it was built by the Aztec Indians of Mexico.
Montezuma’s Castle cliff dwellings
This pueblo cliff dwelling is an impressive five-story 20 room dwelling accessed by ladders during the time it was in use. It was south-facing, so it got the warmth of the winter sun. In summer, it was cool because of the shade from the cliffs.
Nearby, Beaver Creek kept the cliff dwellers supplied with water for living and gardening. The Indians grew crops of corn, beans and squash which were known as the Three Sisters because of how the plants worked together to sustain each other.
The beans climbed the corn stalks to reach sunlight, while supporting the corn from the winds, while the squash was a ground cover that kept the soil moist and discouraged the weeds. The beans, a legume, also enriched the soil. Do you grow these plants in your garden?
The pathway to the ruins is a short pleasant walk from the Visitors’ Center.One can see the similarities between these rock walls and the ones at Tuzigoot.
The day we visited, Beaver Creek was a rushing torrent from recent rains. The pathway to the creek was cordoned off to visitors. The Ranger told us that in a previous year, the creek had overflowed and the water came up to the bottom of the cliff. Maybe this is why the Indians built their pueblos way above the water.
Looking toward Beaver Creek, this area was where they grew their crops.
Montezuma’s Well
About 10 miles north of Montezuma’s Castle is Montezuma’s Well. Instead of taking us on paved roads, our GPS took us the long way. I couldn’t believe such a popular national monument would be accessed by a three mile dirt road. It dawned on us that there was a better way when we reached the entrance to the Monument. There was the paved road we were looking for. On our return route we followed the paved road back to Rimrock from which we were able to access Interstate 17.
Montezuma’s Well and cliff dwellings
There is a short climb up to the rim overlooking Montezuma’s Well. The well is an ancient sinkhole that is fed by an underground spring of over 1.5 million gallons of water each day. The spring waters are from rain and snow that fall on the nearby Mogollon Rim which then seeps through the rock until it reaches the spring. Pressure pushes the water up to the surface. It is said that the water takes as long as 10,000 years to travel from the Rim to the Well.
The well is deep. Millions of gallons of water flow into and out of the well.
The water exits the well through underground streams and a cave system which drains into an ancient irrigation canal. The water level remains constant, as well as the temperature of the water which averages 70 degrees F. However, because the water has a high alkalinity and an excessive amount of dissolved carbon dioxide–more than 100 times higher than normal–fish cannot survive.
Fish can’t live in the water, but thousands of leeches live here.
The depth of the well is unknown because of the pressure of the water. Divers have discovered a “false bottom” at around 60 feet of pressurized groundwater that holds a column of fluidized sand in suspension. The fluidized sand rises from two deep vents in the floor of the well. One is 124 feet deep and the other is 74 feet deep. But previous measurements measured 137′ and 95′. So, we can just say, it’s deep.
Pueblo dwellings in the rocks above Montezuma’s Well
The people who built homes near Montezuma’s Well were the Hohokam and later the Sinagua.
Casa Grande Ruins National Monument
Leaving the Verde Valley area, we traveled south to Mesa, Arizona. One afternoon we drove south, halfway to Tucson to Casa Grande Ruins National Monument. This “Grand House” was probably built in the 1300’s, which is the time period of the founding of the Byzantine Empire, the 100 years war, and the black death or bubonic plague in Europe. These desert people had already been using irrigation methods for hundreds of years to grow their crops.
A metal structure over the ruins keeps it from deteriorating.
Archeologists are not sure of the purpose of this grand structure. However, because of the construction they believe it was well planned and organized. The builders used caliche, a natural concrete-like material found under the soil around this region. They used it to build houses with solid walls and flat roofs covered with this caliche substance.
Walls were made from caliche, a concrete-like material found in the ground.
These desert people were given the name “Hohokam.” It is not really the name of a tribe or people. The name may have come from “huhugam,” an O’Odham word that means ancestors. Today these people are referred to as Sonoran Desert people. By the way, Hohokam is the name of the grade school I attended. Our elementary schools were named after Indian tribes.
A pigeon makes its home among the walls of the ruins. Note the etched name and date below it.
When I took the photo above, I didn’t notice the name and date etched on the wall. It is a good thing that people like Mary Hemenway and President Benjamin Harrison took steps to preserve the ruins for future generations from vandalism and looting. Mary Hemenway was a wealthy woman who sponsored archaeological expeditions. One expedition to Casa Grande Ruins alerted her to the vandalism. She made efforts to preserve the site and as a result, it became the first federal prehistoric and cultural reservation by President Harrison in 1892.
One of the purposes of this structure might have been a calendar. Some of the holes line up directly with the sun on the summer and winter solstices.
In later years, the village homes were grouped into caliche-walled compounds which were arranged around public plazas and public structures. The Grand House or Casa Grande was at the center of this settlement.
These desert people were identified by their type of pottery called “red-on-buff.” This beautiful piece of pottery below is an example of the techniques used in creating their pottery. In my opinion, the dark portions on this pot look to me like leaves of some plant that they tied around the neck of the pot while being fired which left these unusual designs.
This pot below looks similar in design to the one above with the plant-like designs.
These desert people also enjoyed games. There are over 200 oval-shaped, structures with earthen sides located in large Hohokam villages in southern and central Arizona. Archaeologists have speculated that some kind of game was played within these courts with two teams using a hard rubber or stone ball. Round discs were found that might also have been used in other games.
The map below shows many places around Arizona where the Sonoran desert people lived and moved. Eventually, they all left for unknown reasons. It may have been drought, floods, disease, invasion, earthquakes, internal strife or salinization of farmland. We don’t know. Yet we can still appreciate the structures, relics and places they left behind and marvel at their ingenuity.
I am glad we took time to see these places, having never visited any except Montezuma’s Castle when I was growing up. I don’t think I appreciated the contributions these people made to Arizona history. It’s a shame that Hohokam school didn’t teach us anything about the people that our school was named after. I think it would have made a big impression on me to have learned about them and to have visited Casa Grande National Monument.
But the moral of the story is, explore your own backyard. You never know what you might be missing!
Our weeks in Tucson and Benson, Arizona, gave us a chance to explore southern Arizona. Arizona skies seem to have the perfect conditions for amazing sunsets. We enjoyed this beautiful sunset one evening on our walk around the RV park.
Sunset in Tucson, Arizona
Since we were so near Saguaro National Park, I made a quick trip there one afternoon to get my National Park Passport Book stamped. While there, I couldn’t resist a quick trip on the 8-mile drive through the park. The photos of cactus with the snowy mountains in the background were worth it.
Saguaro National ParkSaguaro National Park
Green Valley
One afternoon we took a tour of the Titan II Missile Museum in Green Valley, Arizona, which is just a few miles from Tucson. The missile is not operational, but it was a sobering reminder of the former cold war and threat we faced of nuclear war.
View looking down into the silo of the Titan II Missile
Tombstone
Another popular southern Arizona town is the historic town of Tombstone. One day we packed a lunch and spent the day touring the town. While there, we witnessed a re-enactment of the shootout at the OK Corral. Afterwards we strolled along the streets visiting the Epitaph Press, the Bird Cage Theater, the Arizona Ranger Museum and a presentation of the history of Tombstone.
Actors of Doc Holiday and the Earp Brothers re-enact the shootout at the OK CorralStagecoach ride in TombstoneMain Street in TombstoneHistoric Courthouse at Tombstone, AZ
Benson
We spent one week in Benson, Arizona, just a few miles south of Tucson. Benson is an interesting town because of the murals painted on the buildings and walls around the town. It has a western small town feel to it and reminded me of our former hometown of Mariposa, California.
Mural in Benson, ArizonaAnother mural in Benson, Arizona
Chiricahua National Monument
About an hour drive from the town of Benson is Chiricahua National Monument in the southeast corner of the state. National Monuments may not be as popular as National Parks, but they can be surprisingly beautiful and interesting. It seems there isn’t a substantial difference between the two except that National Parks require an act of Congress to establish and National Monuments do not. Arizona has 18 National Monuments, more than any other state.
Entrance to Chiricahua National Monument
The eight-mile scenic drive starts by winding along the bottom of a canyon surrounded by rhyolite rock pinnacles or hoodoos for which the monument was created to protect. As the road climbs steadily, the views change until you’re overlooking the rock formations from the top of Massai Point at an elevation of 6,870 feet.
Hoodoo rock formations near entranceRhyolite rock pinnacles overlooking scenic drive.
As the road climbed in elevation, we encountered some snow, and could see more mountain ranges in the distance.
At the end of the road is Massai Point where there is a parking lot and a path leading to a stone building. It was a windy day so we were glad to go inside to get out of the wind. Inside we read about the nature and history of the park.
View from Massai Point
At the summit, we could now look down on the many rock pinnacles.
At Massai Point, we could see miles of the surrounding area with distant mountain ranges, including the Dragoon Mountains and Cochise Stronghold.
In the distance are the Dragoon Mountains and Cochise Stronghold
The trees at the higher elevations must be hardy to withstand the harsh climate.
Weathered pine at Massai Point
Chiricahua National Monument is considered a “sky island” because it is comprised of an isolated mountain range that rises up out of the surrounding desert which is like a sea. Because it rises about 6,000 feet above the surrounding valley, it provides a wide range of ecosystems and plant and animal diversity.
Chiricahua NM is one of many “sky islands” in the southeastern desert of ArizonaRhyolitic tuff rock formations were caused by volcanic activity where ash cooled and hardened.
As we drove back down the mountain and out of the park, the evening sun cast a red glow on the nearby mountains. It was late in the day and we were hungry, but I decided to pull over and get one last photo.
As I got out of the truck, I happened to look behind me down the road where we had come. What I saw was this beautiful view of the snowy mountains in the last light of day. By the time I got back in the truck, the light was already gone. I was so glad I stopped for that one last shot.
Road to Chiricahua National Monument
I was surprised at the beauty and interesting topography of Chiricahua National Monument. Though it is off the beaten path, it is worth a visit.
Another surprise was a fascinating article I came across while researching for this blog. The article is about a missing ranger from Chiricahua National Monument. Out of curiosity, I clicked on the link and discovered a tangled mystery. It is quite long, but keep reading. It gets more and more mysterious the further you go. If you care to read it, I will link it below.
We like to explore areas around the places we stay. Space Center in Houston was just a 90 minute drive from Lake Conroe RV Resort in Willis, Texas, where we stayed in November, so we planned a visit.
Lake Conroe
When I was a child, the space program was a nationwide interest. Alan Shepard and Gus Grissom, the first two Americans in space, were household names. They were considered American heroes, as were Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong, the first two men to step onto the moon. Seeing the Space Center reminded me of the beginnings of the space race long ago.
We started our tour in the main building of the museum.The day was cold and windy. It was home school day for the local home schoolers, so we felt right at home with everyone, remembering our own days of homeschooling.
The Main building was huge and would have taken more time and energy to see all of it than we had. There were four main areas plus a Kids Space Place which had hands on exhibits for kids.
We watched a demonstration using a mock-up of the International Space Station and learned what it would be like to live there for an extended time. We also watched a short film of the history of space exploration in the Space Center Theater. As we wandered through the exhibits, we learned about the many aspects of space exploration and travel.
Outside the main building were the Falcon 9 Rocket and Space Shuttle exhibits. In addition, there were three NASA tram tours off-site: The Rocket Park, Mission Control and the Astronaut Training Facility. The Rocket Park was the only tour available on the day we visited because of a mission in progress.
The photos below show a few of the items in the main lobby.
Space CapsuleRocket Motor
Some of you may be old enough to remember the first men to land on the moon. On our visit to the Space Center we got to see up close what it might have looked like on the moon. We could even touch a moon rock.
Astronauts on Moon exhibitNeil Armstrong, Michael Collins, and Buzz Aldrin, the crew of the first manned moon landing.
The Lunar Rover vehicle used in the moon landing had to have special tires made of a woven mesh of zinc-coated piano wire. The chevron pattern kept the wheels from sinking into the soft soil on the moon surface.
Lunar Rover
After seeing many of the exhibits, it was time for us to board the tram to the Rocket Park where the Saturn V rocket was housed. You can get an idea of the size of the rocket by the size of the building. The rocket was lying on its side the length of this building.
Saturn V Building in Rocket ParkRocket Park: Outside Saturn V building was the Mercury Redstone which took the first men into space.
The Saturn V was the rocket that was used to launch the missions to the moon. It had to be massive enough to launch the crew, the lunar lander and the lunar rover all at once. As you can see, it fills the entire building.
Inside Saturn V building showing stages of the rocket
To get an idea of the immense size of the rocket motors on the Saturn V, I took this photo. Notice the man at the bottom of the photo for size reference. The Saturn V had 5 rocket motors on the first stage to launch it into orbit.
Three hours after the Apollo 11 mission was launched, the spacecraft left Earth’s orbit and began its three-day journey to the Moon.
Stage 3 of the Saturn RocketA look inside the cargo area of the Saturn VThe final stage of Saturn V
The lower stages were jettisoned from the rocket as the fuel burned up. On Apollo 11, the command module, Columbia and its command module pilot Michael Collins, would orbit the moon, while the other two crew members, once in position, would climb into the Eagle (lunar lander) and undock from the main spacecraft. From there, they would descend to the moon’s surface.
The diagram below explains the sections of the Command and Service Module. This shows how the Lunar module separated and got to the moon and back.
NASA’s next mission is to go to Mars. Although this seems ambitious to me, plans are already in progress.
Our visit to the Space Center was very informative. It made me think about the vastness of space. I was reminded of Psalm 8:3-4
“When I consider Your heavens, the work of Your fingers, The moon and the stars, which You have set in place; What is man that You think of him, And a son of man that You are concerned about him?”
And again, Psalm 19:1
“The heavens tell of the glory of God; And their expanse declares the work of His hands.”
The more we explore the universe, the more it shows the handiwork of God and the finiteness of man. Man has accomplished a lot in learning about our universe, but the knowledge that really matters is knowing the Creator of it all.
One of my favorite things to do is to step back in time by visiting historic small towns. Texas has many small towns scattered across the state. They were often established along rivers or railway lines. Such was the case with Smithville, Texas. Although a doctor founded the town and built the first house and store, the town was named after William Smith, who arrived several years later. The town population grew quickly when a local businessman made a deal with a railroad by gifting land to build a depot at a new town site. Almost overnight, the town blossomed and flourished.
Smithville is located just off Highway 71, about halfway between Austin and Columbus, Texas. When we visited there, our first stop was the Railroad Museum at the end of the main street where we learned about the disaster of 1911.
Smithville Visitor Center and Railroad MuseumSmithville town clock at the Railroad Museum, looking down Main Street.Railroad Park in Smithville, TX
On February 8, 1911, a switch engine’s boiler exploded. The engine was building up steam in preparation to make a run to another town. The explosion sent the roof sheet metal of the firebox hurtling a distance of three blocks where it landed in the street. Smaller pieces flew twice that distance. Four people were killed and twelve more were injured.
Today a Railroad Park surrounds the Museum showcasing railroad cars from the past. In the garden is a sculpture with a piece of the iron from the engine that exploded.
As we drove around the town, we saw many old stately homes. One of the homes had a carriage step by the street. Carriage steps were to help people getting in and out of their carriages or on and off a horse.
Carriage step
There were plenty of old style houses around the town. The ones with columns and covered porches were especially beautiful. While some had neatly kept yards, others looked neglected.
The house shown below is where the movie “Hope Floats”, a 1998 drama starring Sandra Bullock, was filmed. Smithville prides itself on being a film-friendly destination. They even publish a map for tourists showing the locations where dozens of movies were filmed.
House where “Hope Floats” was filmed.First Baptist Church, Smithville, TX
Fayetteville, Texas
About halfway between Houston and Austin is the town of Fayetteville in the county of Fayette. It is not, however, the county seat. It was named after Fayetteville, North Carolina, a town which we’ve also passed through in our travels.
The county of Fayette is named after General Lafayette, the Revolutionary War hero. Its county seat, La Grange, is named after General Lafayette’s castle in France, Chateau de la Grange-Bleneau. The Marquis de Lafayette fought with the Americans and aided the cause of the American Revolution. La Grange is where we do most of our grocery shopping when we’re staying in Columbus, Texas.
Fayetteville Historical Courthouse
At the center of Fayetteville is the historical courthouse and town square. The day we visited, the town was getting ready for their chili feed the next day. The courthouse is a two-story structure. The first floor is the original courthouse, while the second floor houses the old jail.
Inside Fayetteville CourthouseJury box and witness stand in Fayetteville CourthouseBench with historic figures of the past
Much of Fayetteville’s population is from German and Czech ancestors. The Texas BBQ menus almost always offer sausages as well as the usual brisket and ribs. This is from the Czech and German influence.
Large oak in town square. Local businesses line the surrounding streets.Looking across town square from courthouse.
We wandered into an art gallery off the town square. Fayetteville is kind of an artsy place. They have programs encouraging children of the county and other counties to explore the arts. The featured artist in the gallery at the time was a renowned forensic reconstruction artist. Her paintings and sculptures were on display.
Newly refurbished old schoolhouse
The high school sits at the edge of town. In front of the current high school sits the newly refurbished 110 year old schoolhouse. A new library resides in the downstairs and upstairs houses the district administrative offices.
As we drove out of the town, we saw this pretty church with a silver steeple. It was locked, so we couldn’t see the interior.
Trinity Lutheran ChurchHistoric Trinity Lutheran Church
We drove on some back roads through some other small towns including Industry and New Ulm. These towns were very small with perhaps a store and a few houses. Ellinger was another small town which was on our way home. It has a very busy Czech restaurant and bakery where we stopped and bought some of their delicious kolatches. (pastries with fruit fillings) It is on the highway between Columbus and La Grange.
I feel at home in small towns, having lived on the outskirts of one for many years in California. The people are usually friendly even if they know you’re not a local. The pace of life is slower. The roads are narrower. The views are peaceful. Cows graze in the fields. Barns and farmhouses bring thoughts and memories to mind of childhood visits to farms of relatives in Indiana. In short, it’s a relaxing way to spend an afternoon.
These are just a few of the small towns we have visited in Texas. With 254 counties, there are many more interesting small towns scattered across the vast state, enough to keep us busy for a long, long time!
Many Europeans immigrants settled in Texas in the 1800’s, entering through the port of Galvaston. The majority of them were of German or Czech descent. Being full or part-time farmers, most immigrants came to Texas because of the availability of land. They were very proud of their heritage and tended to settle in groups in the hill country and areas in the southern portion of Texas.
These same people built churches and decorated and painted them to emulate the elaborate churches they left behind in Europe. This included stained glass windows, hand-painted sculptures, paintings, stencils and more.
Although there are as many as 20 painted churches, four are located in the vicinity of Schulenburg, Texas. We took a pleasant drive through the countryside to visit these churches in one afternoon. If we had trouble locating any of these churches, we just had to look for the church spire which was visible from a distance above the tree tops.
Saints Cyril and Methodius Catholic Church in Dubina, Texas with iron cross on top
1. Saints Cyril and Methodius Catholic Church
The first church we visited was Saints Cyril and Methodius Catholic Church in Dubina. Dubina means “oak grove” in Czech. Their first church was constructed in 1877 among the oak studded hills, but was destroyed in a hurricane in 1909. The church was re-built and topped by an iron cross found among the rubble of the first church. The cross was made by a freed slave blacksmith. It is still atop the church today.
The original artwork was painted over in white paint in the 1950’s because the artwork was thought to be too distracting. In the 1980’s, however, when other painted churches were being recognized for their beauty and historicity, the church members decided to restore the church to its original beauty. They uncovered old designs and found old stencils stored in the church to repaint the designs. The columns look like marble, but they are actually just painted to look that way.
Star studded ceiling of Saints Cyril and Methodius Catholic churchInside Saints Cyril and Methodius Catholic Church
2. St. John The Baptist Catholic Church, Ammannsville
It was a short drive to the next church: St. John the Baptist Catholic Church in Ammannsville, Texas. It looks similar on the outside to Saints Cyril and Methodius Church. The first church built here was also destroyed by the 1909 hurricane. They rebuilt, but the second church was destroyed by fire. The third and current church is the one standing today.
St. John the Baptist Catholic Church
The peach-colored interior of this church is sometimes referred to as dusty rose. There is a blend of both German and Czech styles. This church has beautiful stained glass windows.
St. John the Baptist Catholic Church
The detail in the painting of this church can be seen in the next photo above the side door and stained glass window.
The windows in this church were really beautiful. The church’s stained glass windows tell the story of the area’s Czech roots and history.
Altar of St. John the Baptist Catholic ChurchSt. John the Baptist Church
3. St. Mary’s Catholic Church, High Hill, Texas
St. Mary’s Catholic Church, High Hill, TexasInterior St. Mary’s Catholic Church
Built in 1906, St. Mary’s Catholic Church is the most elaborate of the four churches and is called “The Queen” of the painted churches. The church hierarchy encouraged the community to build in the Spanish mission style. This was rejected by the local church leaders who wanted churches built of brick or stone to be able to weather storms or fires. The exterior of St. Mary’s is built of bricks.
The interior of the church has painted arches creating an illusion of structural beams. The columns are wood, but painted to resemble marble.
The church is dimly lit because of the intricate and beautiful stained glass windows. The windows, imported from Germany portray biblical scenes, designs and symbols.
The elaborate interiors of these churches were painted meticulously by hand.
Graveyard for St. Mary’s Catholic Church
Although each of these churches had a graveyard nearby, this is the only one of which I took a photo.
4. St. Mary’s Church of the Assumption, Praha, Texas
St. Mary’s Catholic Church, Praha, Texas
Built in 1895, St. Mary’s Church of the Assumption is a stone church located in Praha, Texas. It is one of the oldest of the painted churches. The altars are hand-carved, and hand-painted in white and gold leaf.
The ceiling is painted to represent the Garden of Eden and filled with Texas flowers.
Garden of Eden with Texas flowersPainting of angels over altarAltar and paintingsPaintings on inside front door of churchPipe Organ in balcony with chandelier
After our tour, we stopped and had an ice cream cone at the “Country Store” in Schulenburg. It was a fun day and perfect for shooting photos with the blue sky and white puffy clouds.
I couldn’t help but notice that almost all of the statues of Jesus depicted Him either dying or dead. It’s wonderful to know the Bible promises us that Jesus is alive!
7 For when we died with Christ we were set free from the power of sin. 8 And since we died with Christ, we know we will also live with Him. 9 We are sure of this because Christ was raised from the dead, and He will never die again. Death no longer has any power over Him. 10 When He died, He died once to break the power of sin. But now that He lives, He lives for the glory of God. Romans 6:7-10 NLT
33 Who will bring charges against God’s elect? God is the one who justifies; 34 who is the one who condemns? Christ Jesus is He who died, but rather, was [a]raised, who is at the right hand of God, who also intercedes for us. Romans 8:33-34 NASB
As for the other painted churches in Texas, hopefully we will be able to visit them eventually and add them to this blog.
This year we tried something new and stayed in some Army Corps of Engineer campgrounds along our way. We found that these parks are generally very nice, and well-kept. The price at this particular one was $14 per night with our National Parks Senior Pass. We made our reservations online and we could pick our campsite and even see a photo of it. The one drawback is that some of them do not have sewer hookups, but there are always free dump stations available.
Army Corps of Engineers Campground, Little Rock, Arkansas
One such park, Maumelle in Little Rock, Arkansas, was right along the Arkansas River which happened to be nearly in flood stage. (The park was well above the water line.) The sites were nicely shaded.
Arkansas River at Maumelle Campground
Hot Springs National Park
Hot Springs National Park is located not far from Little Rock, Arkansas, in the town of Hot Springs. It was the 18th national park established in 1916. However, it had long been a popular place with its ancient thermal springs, mountain views and historic bathhouses with their grand architecture.
We camped at Gulpha Gorge Campground which is within the park boundaries and just minutes away from the Hot Springs National Park attractions. Again, with our National Parks Senior Pass, the fees were very low.
Gulpha Gorge Campground
On the day we explored the main part of the park, we got an early start and found a free parking space near enough to walk to Bathhouse Row. Temperatures were going to be pretty hot that day, so we wanted to get out early to beat the heat.
This national park seemed very different from others, in that, it is located in the downtown area of a small city. The park boundaries extend beyond the downtown area into the hills above the city where the hot springs originate.
On the way to main street, we saw this hot water cascade at Arlington Lawn. We dipped our fingers in the water, and it was hot enough that we couldn’t hold our hands in it for long. The corner area of this block is a park with shade trees, green grass and walkways. Trails wind up and around the backsides of the row of bathhouses.
Park near hot water cascadePool at the bottom of hot water cascadePool at hot water cascade in Hot Springs NP
Looking down Main Street, you can see several of the bathhouses. Some are open to the public, and others are fully operating businesses offering hot mineral baths and spa treatments to their customers. And two are operated by the National Park Service.
Bathhouse Row
The Quapaw Bathhouse is known for its mosaic tile dome.
Quapaw Bathhouse
The Ozark is home to the Hot Springs National Park Cultural Center. The Center features gallery spaces for displaying artwork from the park’s Artist-in-Residence Program. Admission was free but because of time, we had to choose which bathhouses we could explore, and we opted to skip this one.
Ozark Bathhouse
I love the blue awnings of the Buckstaff bathhouse seen below. It is the only one that offers a traditional bathing experience. It has been in continuous operation since 1912.
Buckstaff Bathhouse
The Lamar contains offices for the park’s employees and the park store. I love browsing in the national park store. I don’t buy souvenirs, but it’s fun to look.
Lamar Bathhouse
The Fordyce Bathhouse is in the middle of the block. It functions as the park’s visitor center. It is the largest bathhouse on the Row with three main floors, two courtyards, and a basement under most of the building. It houses the museum.
It is also where I could get my National Parks Passport stamped.
Fordyce Bathhouse
The Fordyce Bathhouse Museum is located here and visitors can go on a self-guided tour. The architecture on this building is really interesting.
Closer view of Fordyce Bathhouse architecture
Inside tour of Fordyce
Our tour began in the lobby where we were greeted by an elaborate fountain situated in a room of wicker rocking chairs sitting on a mosaic tile floor.
Inside Fordyce Bathhouse
Men’s and women’s areas were separate. Here is the the De Soto Fountain in the men’s area.
Fordyce Bathhouse
Below is a photo of the gymnasium with period equipment.
Gymnasium at Fordyce Bathhouse
There were many beautiful stained glass windows and ceilings. This room was an area to relax and enjoy conversation or listen to music played on the grand piano. Notice the beautiful stained glass ceiling and mosaic tiled floor.
Lounge at Fordyce BathhouseGrand piano of Fordyce Bathhouse
At the end of our tour, we walked back to the truck to take a break and get some refreshments. Afterwards I took photos of the other bathhouses before we left.
The Maurice Bathhouse is a commercial enterprise of art and high-end tourist items. The architecture is really beautiful.
Maurice BathhouseMaurice Bathhouse front view
The Hale Bathhouse is now Hotel Hale, a luxury hotel. Overnight guests can stay in historic rooms and experience the thermal springs.
Hale Bathhouse
We drove to another part of town and ate lunch at Chick-fil-A. While we were there, a lady at the table next to us introduced herself and gave us some “must see” sites to see which included the observation tower and the botanical gardens.
We only had one day to see everything, so even though it was hot, we decided to see as much as we could.
Hot Springs Mountain Tower
This tower (shown below) is located on the mountain behind Bathhouse row up a steep winding road. At 1,256 feet above sea level, it overlooks 140 miles of surrounding Arkansas countryside.
We took the elevator up to the top observation deck and enjoyed the views.
Looking out from the observation deck, we could see the town of Hot Springs and Bathhouse Row.
View from Hot Springs Mountain TowerView from Tower
Garvin Woodland Gardens
Another suggestion from our friendly lady at lunch was to see Garvin Woodland Gardens located a few miles outside the city. At one time, it was logged for trees. After the trees grew back a second time, the owner was going to log it again when his daughter, Verna Cook Garvan, stepped in and asked him to spare them. She eventually inherited the land and turned it into a botanical garden, planting themed garden areas, and developing it for over 30 years. At her death it was donated to the University of Arkansas with the stipulation that it be preserved and cared for.
Entrance to Garvan Woodland GardensFlowers at entrance of gardensHydrangeas at entrance of gardens
The garden encompasses 210 acres and has miles of pathways meandering throughout the forest canopy.
Near the entrance is an elaborate garden railroad with several trains running simultaneously through the tunnels and over bridges and tracks.
Garden RailroadGarden Railroad
Though the day was hot and humid, we stayed under the shady trees on most of the pathways. We only explored a small part of the gardens. The pathways wound downhill toward the lake and koi pond.
Miles of shaded pathways lead throughout the garden.Bridge to pathway to Japanese garden area.Bonsai plants in Japanese Garden area.Lilies line the pathwayLilies
All of the water is pumped uphill from the lake to make the creeks, waterfalls and pond.
Round stone bridgePink HydrangeasWaterfallWaterfall into the Koi Pond
When we were at the Koi pond (shown below), I saw something swimming across the water. At first I thought it was a fish, but then I realized as it got closer that it was a snake! It was swimming with its head out of the water using its body to propel it.
Koi PondWaterfallLush green trees and bushesShoreline of lake
What goes down, must go back up. Eventually we had to hike back uphill to the entrance and parking lot. We were glad to get back to the truck and cool off in the air conditioning. We were only able to explore a small part of this huge botanical garden. I would love to go back someday when the weather is cooler and explore more of this place of beauty. It is truly unique and beautiful.
