California Coast & Redwoods National Park

Posted on May 11, 2024 by admin

We began our 2024 summer travels by going up Highway 101 in California to Pacifica near San Francisco. Our first campsite was off Highway 1, right on the Pacific Ocean. We were up on a cliff, and it was pretty windy and chilly. My favorite thing about this site was that I could open the back curtains in our RV each morning and look out and see the ocean.

My other favorite thing to do was to capture photos of the sunset every evening. Every sunset was different and unique.

The ice plants were in full bloom. On clear afternoons, we could see people para-sailing over this coastline. The RV park is part of the Esplande Beach Overlook Trail. The trail goes right through the RV park and continues beyond it along this street. There are benches where you can sit and enjoy views like this. Some days the water was a beautiful turquoise blue.

After spending four days there, we got back on Highway 101 and crossed the bay on the Golden Gate Bridge. Although Highway 1 follows the coastline, we followed Highway 101 because it is easier for pulling a travel trailer. Highway 101 eventually makes its way back to the ocean near Eureka, CA.

North of Eureka is Klamath, California, where the Klamath River meets the Pacific Ocean. Our campground was right on the Klamath River. From there, it was only a short drive to Redwoods National Park.

Redwoods National Park is actually a combination of three California state parks (Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) and a national park (Redwoods National Park) and stretches many miles along the northern coast of California.

Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (Redwoods National Park)

There’s a scenic drive south of Klamath called the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. It is a ten-mile drive through the redwood trees.

Redwoods along the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway

Along the scenic drive was a side road to see The Big Tree. The pathway there was lined with all kinds of ferns.

No camera can quite capture the immensity of these huge redwood trees.

We continued south to the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park Visitors’ Center. On the way, we saw a bear along the road. In the meadow we saw several elk grazing.

Elk grazing in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (Redwoods National Park)

After getting my National Parks Passport book stamped, we drove further south to Elk Meadow area where I hiked to Trillium Falls. Wildflowers greeted me at the start of the trail.

The forest soon closed in around me as the trail wound up switchbacks for a 200′ elevation gain. The sign at the trailhead said there were bears in the area. I was a little nervous being all alone, but I knew there were people ahead of me and behind me also.

I quit worrying and just enjoyed the quiet and beauty of the forest. Ferns grew everywhere, even out of old tree stumps.

Pathway to Trillium Falls lined with ferns.

I had to hold onto the roots of a large fallen redwood trying to avoid a muddy spot on the trail. There were several spots that were muddy and slippery. I took my time and didn’t slip.

These giant redwoods don’t have deep roots, but the roots spread out for quite a distance around them. These huge moss-covered trunks intrigued me.

A footbridge over water on the trail to Trillium Falls.

After a half-mile of hiking, I came to Trillium Falls. The falls weren’t that impressive, but the setting was magical. The forest and ferns around it made it such a pretty place.

There were several people gathered around the falls getting photos and climbing on the rocks. I had to wait to get some photos.

It was such a beautiful spot in the late afternoon. The light was filtering down through the trees on this very twisted mossy tree that hung over the falls.

After lingering at the falls for awhile, I headed back to the truck. The trail continued on, but I didn’t carry any water with me, and I was getting pretty thirsty by then. I felt like this hike had been well worth the effort. There was just one thing more that I wished for. This may seem silly, but I prayed to see a trillium flower for which the falls was named.

My prayer was answered. Though I had looked all along the pathway for flowers, I didn’t see this one until I was on the way back.

Trillium Flower is known for it’s three petals and three leaves.

“The Lord directs the steps of the godly. He delights in every detail of their lives.” Psalm 37:23

Canyonlands National Park, Utah

Posted on November 2, 2023 by admin

Several years ago, we visited Canyonlands National Park on the west entrance. The road follows the rim of the canyon where there are epic views of the canyons where one can see for miles. This time we visited the east entrance where we drove around the canyon floor.

On our way there, we stopped to see Newspaper Rock Archaeological Site. This site is well protected by the overhanging cliff.

It was interesting to me to see that some of the feet drawn on the rock had six toes. It seems having an extra toe or finger was maybe highly valued. Excavations have found six-toed skeletons in Chaco Canyon in New Mexico.

Six-toed footprints, flying saucers, men with horns–what are these petroglyphs about?

As we drove along the canyon floor on the way to the entrance of Canyonlands, the rock walls towered above us.

We saw this interesting rock formation along the way.

After driving several miles, we finally came to the entrance. We stopped at the visitors’ center where I found some post cards and a t-shirt.

This section of the park is called The Needles because of the colorful spires of Cedar Mesa Sandstone that are prevalent in the area. There is only one road leading in and out of the area. We drove the scenic drive all the way to the end. Our first scenic viewpoint was the Wooden Shoe Arch Overlook. I think it was appropriately named.

Wooden Shoe Arch Overlook with Wooden Shoe Arch in the distance.

Our time in southeastern Utah was during the monsoon season of August. Every day a rain storm would bring clouds and often times rain.

We drove through the campground at the park just to get an idea of what the sites looked like. There were no hook ups and the sites were very small. Water was available only seasonally at the restroom facilities.

The rock formations around the campground looked like giant toadstools.

Toadstool like rock formations among the campground area.

We drove to Pothole Point where we saw the potholes that collect water when it rains. Even though they were dried up, there is a whole ecosystem with aquatic life that comes alive when the rains come. It’s important not to step in the holes because of that. They are a source of water for the wildlife in the rainy season.

Pothole Point had many potholes to collect water during the rains.

At the end of the road is Big Spring Canyon Overlook. It was here that we got a good look at the pinnacles from which the name “The Needles” comes from.

The Pinnacles in the background give this section of the park its name: The Needles.

The Utah Juniper tree is a hearty tree that can survive the harshest of conditions due to its extensive and deep root system. The roots can grow 25 feet deep and spread out for 100 feet from the tree.

Utah Juniper clings to the rocks at Big Spring Canyon Overlook.

Although The Needles section of Canyonlands National Park was interesting and beautiful, it didn’t compare with the views from the western entrance. I was mildly disappointed. But I’m glad we got to see this area of the park.

We drove back to our campground in Monticello, Utah. That spot turned out to be a perfect base camp for visiting all the attractions of southeastern Utah. We still had at least one more area to explore, but I will save that for the next blog.

“No one is as holy as the Lord! There is no other God, nor any Rock like our God.” I Samuel 2:2

Arches National Park

Posted on October 3, 2023 by admin

There are five national parks in the state of Utah. Even though we’ve visited all five in the past, we wanted to revisit Arches and Canyonlands again. There’s never enough time to see everything all at once.

Arches NP is now so popular that it requires a timed entry ticket to visit during peak hours. We found the afternoons had plenty of time slots available. I was also hoping to get some sunset photos.

We started our visit this time at the visitors’ center. It was built in 2005, so it was our first time to see it. I especially liked the views from the large windows.

Our first stop along the 40-mile scenic drive was the Park Avenue Viewpoint. From the viewpoint it was like looking through a window at the mountains beyond. The trail climbed down into a valley between massive rock formations.

The three gossips looked familiar to us from previous visits. I call them “Three Wise Men” because they look like they’re wearing turbans.

Erosion is constantly wearing down the sandstone rock. Some arches eventually collapse. Such is the one shown below. The three rock columns were once connected on top by a layer of rock.

Other types of formations in the park are balancing rocks, such as this one.

This double arch was formed from water erosion from the top, rather than more typical erosion from the side. Next to them are the beginnings of other arch caves.

Delicate Arch has had many names in the past, including “Old Maids Bloomers”, “Pants Crotch” and “School Marm’s Pants.” Although the rumor is not true that the names of Delicate Arch and Landscape Arch were inadvertently exchanged due to a signage switch, in my opinion, the switched names fit better than the current ones.

We hiked up to this arch years ago. But this time, I just took a photo from a distance with a zoom lens.

There are over 2,000 natural arches in Arches National Park. There are also hundreds of towering pinnacles, huge rock fins, and giant balanced rocks.

Windows are formed by blowing sand that erodes the rock instead of water erosion. North and South Windows are sometimes called the “spectacles” because they look like eyeglasses.

Formations called “fins” are formed when water flows along parallel joints or fractures and erodes the rock away in “slices”.

As the afternoon wore on, the clouds parted and the sun lit up the rocks. We weren’t at the end of the scenic drive yet. There were still more sites to see.

Driving along the road, we could see the beginnings of many arches forming in the rocks.

Skyline Arch was one of my favorites simply because you could see it from the road and it had this interesting twisted old tree in front of it.

At the end of the scenic drive is Devils Garden Trailhead. This trail leads to Landscape Arch, which is the longest rock arch in North America. It is very long and thin, which makes me think it should have been named “Delicate Arch.”

The wind had kicked up, and it was late in the day, so I only hiked a short way on the two-mile hike to the arch.

The entrance to the trail is something like walking through the Gates of Argonath in the Lord of the Rings. The rocks tower on either side of the pathway like guards.

I hiked far enough to see one of the other arches along the trail called Pine Tree Arch, then turned around and headed back.

We noticed these holes in the rock above the parking lot. It shows how water enters the rocks and begins the erosion process that eventually forms arches.

The rain was all around us while we were there, but it finally caught up with us as we were leaving.

Our second visit to Arches made for a beautiful day enjoying the beautiful scenery created by God.

He is the Rock; His deeds are perfect. Everything He does is just and fair. He is a faithful God who does no wrong; how just and upright He is! Deuteronomy 32:4 TLB

Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Posted on May 25, 2023 by admin

Created in 1966, Guadalupe Mountains National Park contains the highest point in the state of Texas, Guadalupe Peak (8,751′). The park is located near Carlsbad, New Mexico, and just a few miles across the Texas border. In the western “arm” of Texas, this less known national park is well-known for its clean air.

The views of mountains in Guadalupe Mountains National Park with a zoom lens

The Park is intentionally inaccessible. It was created during a time when the environmental movement was in full swing. Ninety-five percent of the park is wilderness. From the eastern border of the park where we were, there are only three short roads into the park. If you like to hike, however, there are numerous trails throughout. For us old people, we had to be content with viewing the mountains from a distance.

There are roads around the outside of the park with various viewpoints. If we had driven several hours more, we might have been able to see more, but we just didn’t have the time.

Like Yosemite National Park, this park also has an “El Capitan.” It is a 1,000′ high limestone cliff. It is visible from the highway as you drive further south. However, we did not go that far.

The wildflowers and cactus were in bloom and we enjoyed seeing the beauty of the desert in bloom.

We visited the historic Frijole Ranch, but the museum was closed. It is only open seasonally when staff or volunteers are available. There was a spring outside the ranch house that flows continually at 5 gallons per minute. A spring house covers the opening and the water flows in a channel through the courtyard.

Outside the Visitors’ Center, we were fascinated with the yucca plants in various states of bloom. The yucca is related to the agave plant.

Indians called yucca “soap weed.” The roots were used for washing. Other parts of the plant were used for medicine and food. The fibers were used for many things and the seeds were used for tea or dried for making beads.

And we also saw century plants in bloom. Century plants and yucca plants look similar, but the century plants have “branches” with blooms on the ends.

Later in the afternoon, the sun finally came out and lit up the mountains.

In the early afternoon, we headed back to our campground. On the way, we were going to pass Carlsbad Caverns National Park, so we decided to stop. We were too late to go on a cave tour, but we looked at the exhibits in the Visitors’ Center. I got my National Parks Passport Book stamped since we had already visited years ago.

The five mile drive into the park was reason enough to visit. The cacti were in bloom everywhere. On our way out of the park, I got a few photos of the blooms. Right at the entrance a huge cholla cactus was in bloom.

This is the view from the Visitors’ Center at Carlsbad Cavers NP. I didn’t remember this from our visit years ago, but it is a beautiful view.

View from Carlsbad Caverns National Park Visitor Center in New Mexico.

More wildflowers decorated the roadside.

I’ve never seen such an abundance of prickly pear cacti, many with bright yellow blooms.

I kept seeing bright pink patches from the rocks on the cliffs. Stopping to check it out, I discovered they were hedgehog cacti in bloom.

Ray was curious about the “green chili peppers” he saw on some of the yucca. I zoomed in and got these photos. The chili peppers are really seed pods of the yucca plant. These are yet another stage of the yucca plant.

Yucca plants take many years to grow.

Our Escapees park had some beautiful specimens of yucca and ocotillo.

Yucca plant in bloom at Escapees campground

I was somewhat disappointed in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. However, it has been years since I have seen Carlsbad Caverns National Park. I would love to go back and re-visit it again. And, who knows, I might just give Guadalupe Mountains National Park another try also.

Southern Arizona and Chiricahua National Monument

Posted on February 20, 2023 by admin

Tucson

Our weeks in Tucson and Benson, Arizona, gave us a chance to explore southern Arizona. Arizona skies seem to have the perfect conditions for amazing sunsets. We enjoyed this beautiful sunset one evening on our walk around the RV park.

Since we were so near Saguaro National Park, I made a quick trip there one afternoon to get my National Park Passport Book stamped. While there, I couldn’t resist a quick trip on the 8-mile drive through the park. The photos of cactus with the snowy mountains in the background were worth it.

Green Valley

One afternoon we took a tour of the Titan II Missile Museum in Green Valley, Arizona, which is just a few miles from Tucson. The missile is not operational, but it was a sobering reminder of the former cold war and threat we faced of nuclear war.

View looking down into the silo of the Titan II Missile

Tombstone

Another popular southern Arizona town is the historic town of Tombstone. One day we packed a lunch and spent the day touring the town. While there, we witnessed a re-enactment of the shootout at the OK Corral. Afterwards we strolled along the streets visiting the Epitaph Press, the Bird Cage Theater, the Arizona Ranger Museum and a presentation of the history of Tombstone.

Actors of Doc Holiday and the Earp Brothers re-enact the shootout at the OK Corral

Benson

We spent one week in Benson, Arizona, just a few miles south of Tucson. Benson is an interesting town because of the murals painted on the buildings and walls around the town. It has a western small town feel to it and reminded me of our former hometown of Mariposa, California.

Chiricahua National Monument

About an hour drive from the town of Benson is Chiricahua National Monument in the southeast corner of the state. National Monuments may not be as popular as National Parks, but they can be surprisingly beautiful and interesting. It seems there isn’t a substantial difference between the two except that National Parks require an act of Congress to establish and National Monuments do not. Arizona has 18 National Monuments, more than any other state.

The eight-mile scenic drive starts by winding along the bottom of a canyon surrounded by rhyolite rock pinnacles or hoodoos for which the monument was created to protect. As the road climbs steadily, the views change until you’re overlooking the rock formations from the top of Massai Point at an elevation of 6,870 feet.

Rhyolite rock pinnacles overlooking scenic drive.

As the road climbed in elevation, we encountered some snow, and could see more mountain ranges in the distance.

At the end of the road is Massai Point where there is a parking lot and a path leading to a stone building. It was a windy day so we were glad to go inside to get out of the wind. Inside we read about the nature and history of the park.

At the summit, we could now look down on the many rock pinnacles.

At Massai Point, we could see miles of the surrounding area with distant mountain ranges, including the Dragoon Mountains and Cochise Stronghold.

In the distance are the Dragoon Mountains and Cochise Stronghold

The trees at the higher elevations must be hardy to withstand the harsh climate.

Chiricahua National Monument is considered a “sky island” because it is comprised of an isolated mountain range that rises up out of the surrounding desert which is like a sea. Because it rises about 6,000 feet above the surrounding valley, it provides a wide range of ecosystems and plant and animal diversity.

Chiricahua NM is one of many “sky islands” in the southeastern desert of Arizona

Rhyolitic tuff rock formations were caused by volcanic activity where ash cooled and hardened.

As we drove back down the mountain and out of the park, the evening sun cast a red glow on the nearby mountains. It was late in the day and we were hungry, but I decided to pull over and get one last photo.

As I got out of the truck, I happened to look behind me down the road where we had come. What I saw was this beautiful view of the snowy mountains in the last light of day. By the time I got back in the truck, the light was already gone. I was so glad I stopped for that one last shot.

I was surprised at the beauty and interesting topography of Chiricahua National Monument. Though it is off the beaten path, it is worth a visit.

Another surprise was a fascinating article I came across while researching for this blog. The article is about a missing ranger from Chiricahua National Monument. Out of curiosity, I clicked on the link and discovered a tangled mystery. It is quite long, but keep reading. It gets more and more mysterious the further you go. If you care to read it, I will link it below.

The Search for a Ranger Who Was Lost and Never Found: https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/exploration-survival/paul-fugate-park-ranger-search/

Hot Springs National Park

Posted on July 25, 2022 by admin

June 2022

This year we tried something new and stayed in some Army Corps of Engineer campgrounds along our way. We found that these parks are generally very nice, and well-kept. The price at this particular one was $14 per night with our National Parks Senior Pass. We made our reservations online and we could pick our campsite and even see a photo of it. The one drawback is that some of them do not have sewer hookups, but there are always free dump stations available.

Army Corps of Engineers Campground, Little Rock, Arkansas

One such park, Maumelle in Little Rock, Arkansas, was right along the Arkansas River which happened to be nearly in flood stage. (The park was well above the water line.) The sites were nicely shaded.

Hot Springs National Park

Hot Springs National Park is located not far from Little Rock, Arkansas, in the town of Hot Springs. It was the 18th national park established in 1916. However, it had long been a popular place with its ancient thermal springs, mountain views and historic bathhouses with their grand architecture.

We camped at Gulpha Gorge Campground which is within the park boundaries and just minutes away from the Hot Springs National Park attractions. Again, with our National Parks Senior Pass, the fees were very low.

On the day we explored the main part of the park, we got an early start and found a free parking space near enough to walk to Bathhouse Row. Temperatures were going to be pretty hot that day, so we wanted to get out early to beat the heat.

This national park seemed very different from others, in that, it is located in the downtown area of a small city. The park boundaries extend beyond the downtown area into the hills above the city where the hot springs originate.

On the way to main street, we saw this hot water cascade at Arlington Lawn. We dipped our fingers in the water, and it was hot enough that we couldn’t hold our hands in it for long. The corner area of this block is a park with shade trees, green grass and walkways. Trails wind up and around the backsides of the row of bathhouses.

Pool at hot water cascade in Hot Springs NP

Looking down Main Street, you can see several of the bathhouses. Some are open to the public, and others are fully operating businesses offering hot mineral baths and spa treatments to their customers. And two are operated by the National Park Service.

The Quapaw Bathhouse is known for its mosaic tile dome.

The Ozark is home to the Hot Springs National Park Cultural Center. The Center features gallery spaces for displaying artwork from the park’s Artist-in-Residence Program. Admission was free but because of time, we had to choose which bathhouses we could explore, and we opted to skip this one.

I love the blue awnings of the Buckstaff bathhouse seen below. It is the only one that offers a traditional bathing experience. It has been in continuous operation since 1912.

The Lamar contains offices for the park’s employees and the park store. I love browsing in the national park store. I don’t buy souvenirs, but it’s fun to look.

The Fordyce Bathhouse is in the middle of the block. It functions as the park’s visitor center. It is the largest bathhouse on the Row with three main floors, two courtyards, and a basement under most of the building. It houses the museum.

It is also where I could get my National Parks Passport stamped.

The Fordyce Bathhouse Museum is located here and visitors can go on a self-guided tour. The architecture on this building is really interesting.

Closer view of Fordyce Bathhouse architecture

Inside tour of Fordyce

Our tour began in the lobby where we were greeted by an elaborate fountain situated in a room of wicker rocking chairs sitting on a mosaic tile floor.

Men’s and women’s areas were separate. Here is the the De Soto Fountain in the men’s area.

Below is a photo of the gymnasium with period equipment.

There were many beautiful stained glass windows and ceilings. This room was an area to relax and enjoy conversation or listen to music played on the grand piano. Notice the beautiful stained glass ceiling and mosaic tiled floor.

At the end of our tour, we walked back to the truck to take a break and get some refreshments. Afterwards I took photos of the other bathhouses before we left.

The Maurice Bathhouse is a commercial enterprise of art and high-end tourist items. The architecture is really beautiful.

The Hale Bathhouse is now Hotel Hale, a luxury hotel. Overnight guests can stay in historic rooms and experience the thermal springs.

We drove to another part of town and ate lunch at Chick-fil-A. While we were there, a lady at the table next to us introduced herself and gave us some “must see” sites to see which included the observation tower and the botanical gardens.

We only had one day to see everything, so even though it was hot, we decided to see as much as we could.

Hot Springs Mountain Tower

This tower (shown below) is located on the mountain behind Bathhouse row up a steep winding road. At 1,256 feet above sea level, it overlooks 140 miles of surrounding Arkansas countryside.

We took the elevator up to the top observation deck and enjoyed the views.

Looking out from the observation deck, we could see the town of Hot Springs and Bathhouse Row.

Garvin Woodland Gardens

Another suggestion from our friendly lady at lunch was to see Garvin Woodland Gardens located a few miles outside the city. At one time, it was logged for trees. After the trees grew back a second time, the owner was going to log it again when his daughter, Verna Cook Garvan, stepped in and asked him to spare them. She eventually inherited the land and turned it into a botanical garden, planting themed garden areas, and developing it for over 30 years. At her death it was donated to the University of Arkansas with the stipulation that it be preserved and cared for.

The garden encompasses 210 acres and has miles of pathways meandering throughout the forest canopy.

Near the entrance is an elaborate garden railroad with several trains running simultaneously through the tunnels and over bridges and tracks.

Though the day was hot and humid, we stayed under the shady trees on most of the pathways. We only explored a small part of the gardens. The pathways wound downhill toward the lake and koi pond.

Miles of shaded pathways lead throughout the garden.

Bridge to pathway to Japanese garden area.

All of the water is pumped uphill from the lake to make the creeks, waterfalls and pond.

When we were at the Koi pond (shown below), I saw something swimming across the water. At first I thought it was a fish, but then I realized as it got closer that it was a snake! It was swimming with its head out of the water using its body to propel it.

What goes down, must go back up. Eventually we had to hike back uphill to the entrance and parking lot. We were glad to get back to the truck and cool off in the air conditioning. We were only able to explore a small part of this huge botanical garden. I would love to go back someday when the weather is cooler and explore more of this place of beauty. It is truly unique and beautiful.

Shiloh National Military Park

Posted on July 7, 2022 by admin

June, 2022

In the Western half of Tennessee we stayed at a Thousand Trails campground near the small town of Saulsbury. Nearly 40 miles away is the national historical battlefield of Shiloh, a civil war battleground. Having never visited a national battleground before, I wasn’t sure what to expect.

Shiloh National Military Park

We started out at the Visitor’s Center where we watched an award winning documentary about the battle of Shiloh that took place on April 6-7,1862. The battle was named after a small church in the vicinity. Ironically, the name Shiloh means “place of peace” or “heavenly peace”. It is much more fitting today as the beautiful grounds are quiet and solemn.

The Union Troops came south on steamboats to Pittsburg Landing on the Tennessee River. The goal was to take the Confederate’s stronghold at Corinth, Mississippi, (a few miles to the south) in order to cut the South’s supply lines. Corinth, Mississippi, was a crossroads where railway lines from the east and west met ones from the north and south. We visited Corinth and saw where these railroads crossed.

General Grant of the Union Army was waiting for Buell’s Army of the Ohio to join him. Little did Grant realize that the Confederates who he thought were in Corinth, had moved near Shiloh to launch a surprise attack.

The Confederate Army under General Johnston originally had planned to attack two days earlier. Due to a heavy rain storm that turned the roads to mud, it took Johnston three days to move his army just 23 miles. They were also short of rations due to the delay.

In the meantime, General Grant was trying to avoid a battle until his reinforcements arrived, but early on April 6th, a Union reconnaissance patrol came face to face with the Confederates and the battle began.

The battle raged for two days with thousands of casualties. At first, the battle went in favor of the Confederates, but after the second day, the Confederates were outnumbered and out of supplies. They retreated to Corinth, where the war continued.

The pathway where the battle began when Union soldiers stumbled into Confederate pickets.

Many beautiful monuments have been erected to honor the armies of both sides. We took a twelve mile self-guided tour on the roads throughout the park. There were many monuments and memorial sites as well as signs with explanations of the battle sites.

Monument to Indiana Infantry, 17th Regiment

The roads through the battlefield were lined with beautiful trees and park-like vistas.

The Confederates amassed more than 50 cannons, the largest concentration of field guns yet witnessed along a half mile frontage, to pound a dense oak thicket in the middle of the battlefield that the Union Army still held.This kept them pinned down while the Confederates surrounded them forcing the Union soldiers to surrender.

This map shows the troop placements and time of day when the Confederates surrounded part of the Union Army. Some were able to escape, but many were captured.

Much of the battle of Shiloh took place on farmland of Joseph Duncan.

The Sixth Mississippi lost over 300 men in less than an hour.

No part of this battlefield was left untouched by the horror of this battle. Mass burial graves were necessary to inter the 3,482 dead. More than 16,000 were wounded and 3,844 were captured or missing. This was the bloodiest battle of the Civil War thus far, and the war was only a year along.

The Civil War was a costly war in terms of humankind. National Military Parks like this help us to appreciate the history of our country and the freedoms we have because of those who went before and paid the price.

It is sobering to think of the cost of freedom. Young men in the prime of their lives were cut off from living so that we can enjoy freedom to live as we do today. We can honor them by supporting parks like this.

Mammoth Cave National Park

Posted on June 1, 2022 by admin

May 2022

Kentucky has a lot of caves–5,000 as of 2018. It ranks fourth in the USA in number of documented caves. The reason for this is that about a quarter of the state is has limestone under the surface which has the right conditions for cave formation.

Our Thousand Trails Campground named Diamond Caverns lies within the Mammoth Cave National Park boundaries so we made a reservation to go on a tour of the cave. There are many tours available, but we opted for the easiest one with only 12 required stair steps, and lasting only an hour and 15 minutes. Some of the tours lasted for 2 or more hours, were 2 or more miles in length and had 400+ stair steps.

While we waited for our bus ride to the cave tour, we wandered around the Visitor Center. I saw this 3-D map of a portion of the cave. It illustrates the complexity of Mammoth Cave. Mammoth Cave is the world’s longest known cave system.

Thirty minutes before our tour, we made our way to the bus stop. Our group members sat on concrete benches under a covered waiting area. They were mostly older people and families with young children.

Our bus was a converted school bus painted green. It took me back to elementary school days when we rode buses on our field trips. Now I am a grandma going on my own field trip! The day was cool and cloudy, so none of the windows were open. I was glad for that.

We boarded the bus after showing our tickets. The bus ride took us through bright green woods and forests of deciduous trees until we arrived 10 to 15 minutes later at the door to the cave which looked like a utility building in the side of a hill.

I was disappointed that our cave tour started as a small narrow passageway. When I think of “mammoth”, I think of a huge cavernous opening with high ceilings. Apparently, there are such places in Mammoth Cave, but that would have been a more strenuous tour.

The photo is a little blurry, but you can see two prominent stalagmites growing up from the floor. They are stalagmites because they “might” reach the ceiling. Stalagmites are formed when water drips on the floor and the minerals in the water build up into a formation like this.

These stalactites look like a bunch of carrots hanging down. They are stalactites because they have to hold on “tight” to the ceiling. Stalactites are formed when water-dissolved minerals drip from the roof of a cave. When exposed to air, the minerals solidify and form stalactites.

These sheet-like formations are called flowstones.

We finally came to the Frozen Niagra formation for which the tour was named. I think it looked more like a melting ice cream cone.

There were 98 optional stair steps that went down to where we could get a better view of the Frozen Niagra formation. The 98 optional stairs then became 98 mandatory stairs in order to get back out, as our tour guide informed us. We were game to venture down them, as were most of the others in our tour.

On our way back to the door, our tour guide told us about the creatures that live in the cave. There was a pack rat that had made a stash of litter he found and brought into the cave. There was a spider in a web that was far enough away that I didn’t freak out. (I dislike spiders.)

And there were cave crickets. The cave crickets weren’t visible until she shined her flashlight on the cave ceiling. Then we could see them creeping around. They are very light colored, almost translucent with long antennae. I would have been creeped out if the tour guide had shown us these before we went on the cave tour. How many of them were lurking above our heads as we brushed the cave ceiling, is something I don’t want to know about!

This formation looks like a dinosaur with teeth, don’t you think?

I have seen three large caves: Carlsbad, Wind Cave and Mammoth Cave. Of the three, I liked Carlsbad the best. I have to say, I would not make a good cave woman nor a cave explorer. I’m not claustrophobic, but I like sunshine. I can’t imagine spending time exploring caves with a headlight crawling through tight spaces and enjoying it. But it’s nice there are people willing to do that and people who want to preserve these caves for others to see.

While in the visitor center gift shop, I bought a National Parks Passport book and got my first National Park stamped with the date of our visit. The passport lists all the national parks and their locations by region. When you visit a national park, you can get your passport stamped at the visitor center showing when you visited the park. There’s a way to get stamps for parks already visited, but since we’ve seen 25 or more, I’m not going to try to do that.

Big Bend National Park

Posted on April 15, 2022 by admin

From the tip of southern Texas, we traveled northwest along the Texas/Mexico border to the “bulge” of southern Texas. It is appropriately called “Big Bend” because that is where the Rio Grande River makes a huge bend toward the southeast and then bends back to the northeast. In the crook of this huge bend is Big Bend National Park.

Spring was a perfect time of year to visit before the heat set in. It was still chilly at night, and not many cacti or wildflowers were blooming yet except for a few bluebonnets (the Texas state flower) that were starting to bloom by the roadside.

We stayed in an RV park in the town of Terlingua (Ter-ling-gwa), a little town that got its start in the 1880’s when “quicksilver” (mercury) was found in the area.

The first thing I noticed was how vast this area is that Big Bend encompasses. You can see the purple mountains in the far distance, and somewhere beyond those mountains is the Rio Grande, and beyond them is Mexico. Though it is only #15 on the list of the largest national parks, Big Bend National Park is over 800,000 acres, and is larger than Yosemite National Park.

There are plenty of things to do in Big Bend NP including scenic drives, day hikes, river trips, bird watching, fishing, horseback riding and stargazing. Speaking of stargazing, Big Bend has the darkest night skies of any national park in the lower 48 states and is designated an International Dark Sky Park.

The Big Bend NP website has suggestions for scenic drives. We drove on all the paved roads in the park. The Ross Maxwell Scenic drive took us to Sotol Vista where we had a view over the entire valley. The notch in the distant ridge is where the road would end. That is where the Rio Grande cuts through steep cliffs at Santa Elena Canyon.

Santa Elena Canyon at the end of the road.

This is the “notch” in the faraway ridge you were looking at in the last photo. But first, some sites along the way.

We stopped at the Mule Ears Overlook. You don’t have to have much of an imagination to see the “mule ears”.

Tuff Canyon and Castalon Peak were other stops.

Near the end of the road, there is a massive mountain of rock wall that makes a natural barrier at the border of USA and Mexico.This is where the Rio Grande cuts through the rock and becomes Santa Elena Canyon.

Rock walls on the border make a natural barrier.

The Rio Grande is a favorite place for those who like to kayak and canoe down the river. It’s also a favorite spot to watch the sunset, as it sets between the two walls.

We brought a picnic supper with us so we could wait for the sunset. But instead of staying at Santa Elena Canyon, we started making our way back along the same road, stopping to photograph the “golden hour” effect on various mountains and hills.

The sunset did not disappoint.

The next day we packed a lunch and drove to the high country of Big Bend on the Chisos Basin road. In less than 6 miles, this road climbs over 2,000 feet above the desert floor to an elevation of around 4,500 feet. As the road gained elevation, the desert flora soon gave way to drooping junipers, gray oaks and the tall Douglas firs and Arizona pines. The air was notably cooler.

The road ended at the Chisos Mountains Lodge and the Chisos Basin Visitor Center. The parking lot was full, so we turned around and went back home.

Our third day of exploration took us to Panther Junction where we turned onto the road to Rio Grande Village. This 20 mile drive descends nearly 2,000 feet in elevation on its way to the Rio Grande. Along the way we drove through a tunnel, and stopped for a view of the Rio Grande from above.

Looking out across to the Rio Grande, we could see the mountains on the Mexican side of the Rio Grande. Nearby, we saw a spineless prickly pear cactus and other native plants.

Down by the river is a campground, but the sites had no hookups. Even in early March the weather was quite warm. A generator would be a must.

We drove to the Rio Grande river overlook at Boquillas Canyon. Curiously enough, a sketchy-looking man was there selling trinkets and souvenirs to tourists for a high price. I’m not sure if he was from Mexico or the USA. There were three vehicles parked on the other side of the river and a canoe pulled up on the opposite bank. It’s hard to tell why the vehicles were there, and if they had anything to do with the peddler.

Rio Grande River at Boquillas Canyon Overlook

Another day we visited the nearby “ghost town” of Terlingua. The town is now a tourist trap more than a ghost town. A few old buildings and ruins could be seen. We visited a general store next door to the Holiday Hotel and the Starlight Theatre. We strolled through the old cemetery and then bought supper-to-go at the Rustic Iron BBQ.

On the way home, I took a peek in the Quilt store in the town of Terlingua. Two little ladies were sewing away. The owner said she has 14 quilters working for her. When I asked how she ended up in the middle of nowhere, she said, “The warm weather!” “Yep,” I said, “That’s why we’re here.”

Big Bend National Park was better than I anticipated. I found myself wanting to visit again someday because there’s so much more to see.

South Dakota Sights

Posted on March 8, 2022 by admin

Whenever I think of South Dakota, I think of a flat wide expanse of endless prairie, a picture I got in my mind from reading the Little House books. But when we arrived in South Dakota we found beautiful forested mountains with pretty green meadows spaced in between the hills. Western South Dakota in the Black Hills region is a region of surprising beauty. Tucked away in these hills is the iconic Mount Rushmore. (See my blog on Mount Rushmore)

In the Black Hills region are other interesting places to explore. One of the places I wanted to see was the Crazy Horse Memorial. This is a privately-owned memorial to Crazy Horse, a leader of the Lakota Sioux Indians. The sculptor, Korczak Ziolkowski, who dedicated his life to carving this memorial, is now deceased and his descendants have taken on the project.

I had mixed feelings about Crazy Horse Monument. For one thing, after 71 years, it is far from being completed. In contrast, Mount Rushmore was finished in only 14 years. Some reasons for the delay are said to be the weather, tourists, the size of the project and lack of funds. Critics say it has become a money making project for enriching the sculptor’s family. I can’t say for sure that is true, but I was disappointed. It does seem like the 40,000 square foot Visitor’s Center has taken over the central focus instead of the rock carving.

Below is a prototype carving of what the mountain will look like when finished. It’s sad to think I might never see it completed in my lifetime.

The outline of the horse’s head on the mountain yet to be carved.

We wandered around the huge visitor center for nearly an hour. It seemed like we were rushing through it just to be able to see it all. The buildings also house The Indian Museum of North America which houses a large collection of art and artifacts showing the histories and cultures of over 300 native nations. One impressive exhibit was this Navajo Indian rug.

Other items in the museum showcase the artist’s talent such as this carving of Henry Standing Bear, a cousin of Crazy Horse. He was the one who found the artist Korczak Ziolkowski for the Crazy Horse project.

Many Indian handcrafted items were on display. This beautifully crafted pine quill basket caught my attention.

Having taken a pottery class, I’m always fascinated by handmade pottery. These look like they were from a wood-fired kiln or pit.

Other exhibits were this highly decorated horse outfit and the hand-crafted canoe pictured below.

It was irresistible to get a photo of a buffalo up close like this. It was easy to see why the Indians liked the buffalo hides for keeping them warm in the cold winters.

The artist Korczak Ziolkowski, and his wife had 10 children. They must have been a musical family as there were many musical instruments from their home on display in the museum.

We stopped to eat dinner in the nearby town of Custer where a painted buffalo caught my eye. Since it was late in the year, many places were already closed for the winter. We found a Pizza Hut and I ordered chicken wings. They were really good!

Another day we drove to Wind Cave National Park and took a tour into the cave. The cave is so named because as the air pressure changes on the outside, the air blows in or out of the cave to maintain equal pressure. Two brothers discovered the cave when they heard wind blowing out of a hole in the ground. When one leaned in to get a better look, his hat blew off his head.

Wind Cave is the second longest and most complex cave in the world. Only a small part has been explored. It is home to “boxwork”, a unique formation found only in this cave.

One of the stories our guide told us about was in the early history of the cave tours, there was a guide that led tourists down into the cave with a lantern. If he saw a passage that he wanted to explore, he would leave his guests in the dark and go exploring, sometimes leaving them there in the dark for hours before returning. I can’t imagine being left in pitch dark for hours not knowing for sure if the guide would ever return!

Above ground we saw prairie dogs, bison and park-like prairie grasslands and hillsides with forests. I pondered if this would be a nice place to live someday–but then I thought about the cold winters. Hm. Probably not.

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Our Airstream Travels

Category Archives: National Parks

California Coast & Redwoods National Park

Canyonlands National Park, Utah

Arches National Park

Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Southern Arizona and Chiricahua National Monument

Tucson

Green Valley

Tombstone

Benson

Chiricahua National Monument

Hot Springs National Park

Hot Springs National Park

Inside tour of Fordyce

Hot Springs Mountain Tower

Garvin Woodland Gardens

Shiloh National Military Park

Mammoth Cave National Park

Big Bend National Park

South Dakota Sights